It looks great nestled among your plants and gives birds a spot to drink, splash about, and cool off—especially on those scorching Aussie summer days. In this post, we’ll walk through why a bird bath is a top addition to any garden, how to pick the right one, where to pop it, how to keep it clean, and a few extra tips for making your backyard a proper bird haven.

Why Bother with a Bird Bath?

Let’s start with the basics. Birds, just like us, need water. In many parts of Australia, especially when things dry out or during drought, natural water sources can be hard to come by. That’s where your bird bath comes in.

1. A Drink and a Dip

Birds use water for drinking and bathing, which helps them keep their feathers in good shape. A quick splash helps clean off dust and any pesky mites. Clean feathers are essential for insulation and flight, so your bird bath is doing more than just offering a pit stop—it’s helping them stay healthy.

2. Birds Galore

Pop in a bird bath, and you’ll likely start to see more birds in your garden—especially the ones that aren’t fussed about feeders but are always on the lookout for a clean puddle. You might be surprised by who drops by, from little finches and honeyeaters to bigger characters like currawongs or even cockatoos.

3. Natural Pest Control

Birds do a brilliant job of keeping insects in check. By giving them a reason to stick around, you’re also getting a hand with the bugs—no need to reach for the spray.

4. It’s Just Nice, Isn’t It?

At the end of the day, having birds around is just good for the soul. Watching them hop about, preen their feathers, or take a cheeky dip is a lovely way to connect with nature, right in your own backyard.

Choosing the Right Bird Bath

Alright, now that you’re convinced, let’s talk about picking a bird bath that’ll make the local wildlife feel welcome.

1. Material Matters

Bird baths come in all sorts of materials—stone, ceramic, metal, plastic, you name it. Stone and ceramic look beautiful and last ages, but they can be heavy. Plastic is cheap and cheerful, easy to move, but might not stand up to the harsh Aussie sun for long. Pick whatever suits your style and your garden best, just make sure it’s sturdy and safe.

2. Shape and Depth

Birds aren’t after a deep swimming pool—most prefer something shallow, about 2–5 cm deep. A gently sloping edge is ideal so they can wade in gradually. If it’s too steep or deep, smaller birds might steer clear.

3. Size Does Matter

A bigger bath can handle a few birds at once, which is a treat to watch during peak hour. But if you’ve only got a small space, don’t stress—birds aren’t too picky as long as the water’s fresh.

4. Easy to Clean

Trust us on this one—you’ll want something that’s easy to clean. Look for a bath that lifts off its base or has a smooth surface so you can give it a quick scrub now and then.

Where to Put Your Bird Bath

Location, location, location! Where you pop your bird bath can make all the difference.

1. Nice and Visible

Birds won’t visit if they can’t see it, so keep it out in the open where they can spot it from above. But don’t leave them totally exposed—some nearby shrubs or branches give them somewhere to perch and check the coast is clear before taking the plunge.

2. Safe from Predators

Keep it away from spots where cats or other predators might sneak up. No one wants to offer birds a drink and a trap at the same time.

3. Bit of Shade

In our hot climate, a bit of shade helps keep the water cool and slows down evaporation. A spot with morning sun and arvo shade is perfect.

4. Close to Plants

Placing your bath near flowering plants, shrubs, or trees makes it even more attractive. Birds love a mix of water and greenery—it’s like their version of a five-star resort.

Keeping It Clean

Birds like clean water (who doesn’t?), so you’ll need to give your bird bath a bit of TLC.

1. Weekly Scrub

Once a week, tip out the water and give it a good scrub with a stiff brush. You can use a bit of white vinegar or a splash of mild dish soap—just rinse well afterward so there’s no residue.

2. Top It Up

Especially in summer, you’ll want to check the water daily. It can disappear quickly on a hot day, and if you’re lucky, the birds will be lining up for a dip.

3. Winter Ready

In the cooler parts of Oz, bird baths can freeze over. If you’re in Tassie or the highlands, consider a heated bath—or just break the ice when needed so the birds can still have a drink.

4. Mosquito Watch

Stagnant water can attract mozzies, so keep the water fresh and moving if possible. A small solar fountain or dripper does the trick and adds a bit of fun, too.

The post Attracting Birds with a Bird Bath: Creating a Vibrant Habitat appeared first on Bevlea Ross Photography.

So, let’s dive into the world of corellas and find out why they’ve chosen Nagambie as their hangout spot—and what that means for locals, farmers, and nature lovers alike.

Who Are These Feathered Visitors?

Corellas are part of the cockatoo family—those bright, loud, and pretty clever birds native to Australia. In Nagambie, we mainly see two types:

• Little Corellas – small, all-white birds with a splash of pink between the eyes and beak.
• Long-billed Corellas – slightly larger with a longer beak and more pink around the face and chest.

They’re social birds, and by social, we mean they LOVE a crowd. It’s not uncommon to spot flocks of 50 or more wheeling around the sky or settling into trees around Lake Nagambie.

Why Nagambie?

To be fair, why wouldn’t they like it here? There’s food, water, shelter—and plenty of open space. The lake and surrounding farmland provide the perfect setup. Native trees drop seeds, crops offer snacks, and there’s no shortage of roosting spots. It’s kind of like an all-inclusive resort for birds.

In fact, birdwatchers have recorded sightings of large corella flocks around the lake, especially early in the morning or before sunset. They’re part of the soundtrack of Nagambie now, whether we like it or not!

The Good, the Bad, and the Feathery

Now, don’t get us wrong—corellas are fascinating. They’re intelligent, they have strong social bonds, and watching them fly in sync can be a real treat. But… they can also cause some headaches.

The Good:

• They help spread seeds and keep insect populations in check.
• They’re a delight for birdwatchers and nature photographers.
• They add a bit of wild charm to our daily lives.

The Not-So-Good:

• Tree damage: Corellas love chewing. They’ll strip bark and leaves off trees, seriously damaging or killing native species.
• Farm troubles: Farmers often report corellas feasting on crops and sneaking into stored grain. They can cause real financial pain.
• Infrastructure issues: Have you ever seen a chewed-up power cable or a bent antenna? That might have been the work of a curious corella.
• Noise: Let’s say they’re not exactly quiet houseguests. Big flocks can be very vocal—especially at dawn.

Government Help

The Victorian Corella Strategy (yes, the government actually spent time on this “problem”) is in place to help towns like ours balance protecting native wildlife with reducing the impact on communities and farms. Corella Management Grants are even available to help fund local solutions, like better deterrent systems or habitat changes.

possible Legal Solutions

• Changing the landscape – planting trees corellas don’t like or removing tempting food sources.
• Deterrents – things like sound devices, lights, or even scarecrows (yes, they still work sometimes!) to keep birds away from high-risk areas.

Coexisting With Corellas

Corellas aren’t villains—they’re just doing what birds do. The challenge is figuring out how to enjoy the benefits of living close to nature while minimising the downsides. And that’s what makes Nagambie’s story so interesting. It’s not just about dealing with a bird problem. It’s about learning to live in harmony with the environment, even when it throws us a few curveballs—or, in this case, a few hundred screeching birds.

Looking Ahead

Next time you hear that familiar squawk overhead, take a moment to pause and appreciate it! It’s a reminder of how lucky we are to live in a place where nature is still thriving. Sure, it can be a bit noisy, but it’s definitely a sign of life all around us. Just a friendly reminder: using poison to harm wildlife is against the law under the Wildlife Act of 1975. If someone is found guilty, they could face fines of up to $18,174 and/or six months in prison.

Want to share your own corella story or photo? Or do you have a clever way of keeping them off your fruit trees? Drop a comment below—we’d love to hear how you’re dealing with our feathered locals! 🦜

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Feeding wild birds is a highly contentious issue, particularly in Australia. While it is actively promoted in some countries, official advice from councils, environment departments, and conservation and wildlife rescue groups in Australia unequivocally warns against the risks of feeding wild birds. In Western Australia, it is strictly illegal to feed native fauna, including birds, without obtaining a license.

In an ideal world, people wouldn’t feed wild birds at all – but with as many as 30 to 50% of Australian households feeding birds, it’s important that people are aware of the risks of wild bird feeding and how to avoid harming the same wildlife they want to help.

Birdlife.org.au

Providing Food: Catering to Varied Diets

Birds have diverse dietary requirements. Providing an assortment of foods can help you attract various bird species. Key elements to consider when supplying food for Australian birds:

Native Plants and Trees

Native plants in your garden are the best food sources for local birds as they offer familiar and nutritionally appropriate diets:

• Nectar-Producing Flowers: Planting grevilleas, bottlebrushes (Callistemon), banksias, and kangaroo paws can attract nectar-feeding birds like honeyeaters, lorikeets, and wattlebirds. These flowers are rich in nectar and bloom at different times of the year, providing a continuous food supply.
• Fruit-Bearing Trees and Shrubs: Trees and shrubs like Lilly pilly, blueberry ash, and native cherry (Exocarpos cupressiformis) produce fruits that attract species like figbirds, bowerbirds, and silvereyes.
• Seed-Producing Plants: Grasses and forbs like kangaroo grass and native daisies can draw seed-eating birds such as parrots and finches.

Bird Feeders

Supplementing native plants with bird feeders can increase food availability, especially during scarce times:

• Nectar Feeders: If native nectar sources are limited, specially designed nectar feeders can provide additional sustenance for nectarivores. Ensure the nectar solution mimics natural concentrations (four parts water to one part sugar).
• Seed Feeders: Fill these with seeds suited to Australian birds, such as millet, canary seed, and sunflower seeds. Avoid generic seed mixes that contain non-native ingredients.
• Fruit Feeders: Offer slices of fruits like apples, pears, and grapes to attract fruit-eating birds. Never offer citrus fruits or avocados, as these are toxic to birds.

Regularly clean feeders to prevent mould and the spread of diseases and keep them stocked during peak feeding times.

Omnivores and Carnivores

Many people feed magpies and kookaburras mince meat, thinking it’s a healthy treat. However, mince lacks the nutrients that carnivorous and omnivorous birds need from their natural diet of insects, fur, and small mammals’ bones. Feeding mince meat to adult birds can cause health problems for their young, leading to brittle bones from insufficient calcium. Additionally, minced meat can stick to the beaks of birds like kookaburras and tawny frogmouths, which can cause bacterial infections. If you are feeding kookaburras or magpies, offer them dry dog food, crickets, or mealworms.

Providing Water: Essential for Hydration and Hygiene

In our dry Australian climate, water is especially vital for Australian birds, not only for drinking but also for bathing to maintain their plumage. Offering water significantly increases the attractiveness of your garden to birds:

BIRDBATHS: A birdbath, whether store-bought or homemade, can become a central feature:

• Design and Placement: Choose a shallow birdbath with gently sloping sides. Place it in a shaded area to keep the water cool and near shrubs or trees to provide cover from predators. Ensure the birdbath is stable and at a safe height.
• Maintenance: Clean birdbaths regularly to prevent algae buildup and mosquito breeding.

PONDS & WATER FEATURES: Integrating ponds or water features can offer a more naturalistic water source:

• Benefits of Running Water: Fountains, drippers, or small waterfalls are beautiful, and the moving water catches birds’ attention and stays fresher for longer.

Providing Shelter

Shelter is fundamental for protection, nesting, and roosting. Here’s how to ensure your garden offers safe havens:

NESTING SITES: Birds have varying nesting preferences. Providing diverse nesting opportunities can attract different species:

• Nest Boxes: Install nest boxes to cater to cavity-nesting birds like parrots, kookaburras, and pardalotes. Ensure boxes have appropriately sized entrance holes and are placed away from direct sunlight and predators.
• Dense Shrubberies and Hedges: Shrubs like callistemons, melaleucas, and wattles can provide excellent shelter for small birds like fairy wrens and thornbills.

LAYERED VEGETATION: Creating layers of vegetation can mimic natural habitats, promoting biodiversity:

• Ground Layer: For birds that forage on the ground, such as quails, red rump parrots, galahs, etc., use grasses, ground covers, and fallen leaves.
• Mid-Layer: Integrate mid-height shrubs and small trees ideal for perching, nesting, and foraging.
• Canopy Layer: Tall trees offer vantage points and nesting sites for larger species like eagles, cockatoos, and ibis.

Additional Considerations for a Bird-Friendly Garden

• Avoid Pesticides and Herbicides: Chemicals can harm birds directly or contaminate their food sources. Embrace organic gardening practices to ensure a safe environment.
• Minimize Environmental Hazards: Birds are susceptible to window collisions. Implement visible cues like decals, external screens, or bird-safe glass to reduce such incidents.
• Control Pets: Domestic pets, particularly cats, pose significant threats to birds. To minimise predation, supervise pets or create outdoor enclosures.
• Support Conservation Efforts: Participate in local bird conservation programs and citizen science projects like BirdLife Australia’s Atlas or the Aussie Backyard Bird Count. These initiatives support bird monitoring and conservation.

Attracting Specific Australian Birds

Different strategies may be required to attract specific groups of birds to your garden:

• Honeyeaters: Include nectar-rich flowers and low-branching shrubs for easy access.
• Parrots and Lorikeets: Plant eucalypts, wattles, and grevilleas for seeds and nectar, and install sturdy nesting boxes.
• Waterbirds: If you have the space, create larger water bodies with reeds and aquatic plants to attract ducks, swans, and herons.
• Small Songbirds: Dense shrubs and a mix of seeds and insects will encourage species like robins, flycatchers, and fairy-wrens.

Creating a bird-friendly garden in Australia involves nurturing an environment that harmonizes with local ecosystems. By providing diversified food sources through native plants, bird feeders, and favourable habitat structures, ensuring fresh water, and offering safe shelter, you can attract and sustain various Australian bird species. These actions enrich your garden’s biodiversity, enhance the local ecosystem, and add a dynamic natural beauty and activity layer. By fostering appreciation and conservation of native birds, you contribute meaningfully to the sustainability of Australia’s unique avian diversity.

Whether you are an ardent birdwatcher or a gardening enthusiast, a garden that welcomes birds can be a source of continuous joy and a testament to harmonious coexistence with nature.

The post Attracting Birds to Your Garden: Cultivating a Native Wildlife Haven appeared first on Bevlea Ross Photography.

Black Swans (Cygnus atratus) are native to Australia and are an iconic species. They are so revered that they serve as the official emblem of Western Australia, appearing on the state flag and coat of arms. In fact, you can find their image on stamps, sports uniforms and even public buildings around Western Australia (WA). The Swan River in Perth was named after this beautiful bird when the British established the Swan River Colony in 1829. In addition, Black Swans have also been introduced to New Zealand.

Description

The male black swan, also known as ‘cobs’, can grow up to 110 to 142 centimetres in length and weigh between 3.7 to 9 kilograms. They have a wingspan of 1.6 to 2 meters and a unique “S”-shaped curving neck, which is the longest among other swan species. Male swans also have a longer and straighter bill than females, also known as ‘Pens’, and are slightly larger. These large birds have predominantly black plumage, broad white wingtips when in flight, and a vibrant red bill. They require a clearance of forty meters to take off and can reach flying speeds of up to 80 km/h. Black swans have a lifespan of 40 years. Immature swans are known as Cygnets, which have greyish-brown feathers with pale edges.

Black Swans are nomadic, with erratic migration patterns that depend on climatic conditions. Their migration follows no set route or pattern but is in response to drought or rainfall, always hunting for wet areas. Outside of the breeding season, they can travel vast distances, flying mostly at night.

Habitat

Their preferred habitat is the fresh, brackish and saltwater of lakes, swamps and rivers with the underwater vegetation they need for food and nesting materials. They prefer permanent wetlands, including ornamental lakes. However, they can also be found in flooded pastures, tidal mudflats and ornamental lakes.

Diet

Black Swans are vegetarians. They consume algae and weeds, which they obtain by plunging their long necks into the water at depths up to 1 metre deep. While they will also occasionally graze on land, they are ungainly walkers.

Breeding

Black Swans are mostly monogamous breeders. While older swans generally mate for life with one partner, younger swans are known to pair up for a short time, breed and then desert the nest. Thus, leaving the partner (of either sex) to care for the young. Breeding occurs mainly from February to May in the north and May to September in the south.

Near the water, the female swan constructs a nest using sticks, dead leaves, and debris. She lays one egg each day, which usually amounts to five or six eggs, but can sometimes reach nine. Despite the varying laying times, the parents only sit on the eggs and do not warm them, ensuring that all the eggs hatch together. Incubation lasts between 35 to 48 days, and both parents share the duty. After the breeding season, the adult swan goes through a moulting period during which it sheds its feathers and is unable to fly.

The babies, known as cygnets, are able to fly at six months. However, they often remain with the family for up to nine months. They reach sexual maturity between 18 and 36 months of age.

Predators

Black swans and fledglings are at risk from ravens, eagles, hawks and rats. However, the species is not endangered and are protected under the Australian National Parks and Wildlife Acts (1979). They are listed as Least Concern on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

The post Black Swans: A Symbol of Australia’s Rich Wildlife Heritage appeared first on Bevlea Ross Photography.

Appearance

Their unique grey plumage bears rounded black spots. The tail and flight feathers are blackish, with pink to deep red legs and black feet. In addition, the stubby triangular beak and green cere (skin above the beak)  give it a very peculiar expression. Males of this species are slightly larger than females. While the Cape Barren goose has webbed feet, they are significantly less webbed than ducks, allowing them to spend long periods on land.

The Cape Barren Goose can be found across southern Australia. Their preferred habitat is water, such as lakes, dams, lagoons, swamps and rivers. Being herbivores, they graze predominantly on common tussock grass, spear grass, herbs, succulents, pasture grasses, barley, clover, and legumes. Like many seabirds, Cape Barren Geese can drink salty or brackish water; this allows them to remain on offshore islands all year round.  

Breeding

The Cape Barren Goose breeds on the offshore islands of Australia and can be aggressive during the July to September breeding season. They lay their eggs in a nest in the tussocks of open grasslands. The male builds the nest from grass and twigs and lines it with feather down. Each breeding pair establishes its territory in autumn, prepares the nest and defends it noisily against other geese. They are monogamous and bond for life. The female lays four to six eggs and incubates them for 35-40 days. Once hatched, both parents share the brooding duties.

Conservation Status

During the 1800s, the Cape Barren Geese were hunted for food and eggs. By the 1950s, the Cape Barren Goose numbers were so low that biologists feared they might be near extinction. As a result, initiatives were taken that since then have increased the goose population to a level where they are no longer considered endangered. However, they remain one of the world’s rarest geese and have been protected since the 1970s. 

The Phillip Island population of 3000 cape barren geese started from six birds, introduced in 1984. Tasmania serves them in restaurants,  while permits to shoot and eat them were made available in South Australia in 2000.

The post The Cape Barren Goose ~ Rare and Unique to Australia appeared first on Bevlea Ross Photography.

Bird Hotspots

For me, the biggest problem with bird photography is finding the birds. Of course, birds are all around us in streets, gardens, and parks, but they are sparrows, crows, magpies etc. Twitchers (bird watchers) post their sightings all the time. But finding the robins, hawks, rosellas, parrots, and cockatoos (apart from the prolific Sulpher crested) can be a skill in itself. Not to mention finding them within the range limits of your lens.

The Cornell Lab of Ornithology runs a great website called eBird. On there, you can search for bird hotspots, submit your findings, or find where a particular species are. For your mobile, there is Merlin. Merlin also has free bird packs to download to your phone, giving bird information, calls, locations etc. It’s a great starting point.

Learning the bird’s behaviour is also a great help in predicting what it will do. It is equally important to know the time of day they are most active, what months they are in what area, etc. Behaviour-wise, for example, birds always fly off in the direction they face, and if they raise their tail and release faecal matter, they are about to take off.

Equipment

For bird photography, you must have a camera with a long lens. The longer, the better. On my Olympus micro-four-thirds, I have the Olympus 40-150mm with a 2x extender giving me 600mm. A 300mm lens will work ok (esp on micro four-thirds, where it translates to 600mm or a crop sensor, where it’s around 450mm). If you have a full-frame camera – you need something that’s at least 400mm, preferably up to 600mm. You can get away with less, but most of the time, it will require heavy cropping.

One way around that is using Topaz Gigapixel – it will make your cropped image up to 6x larger without losing quality. (they have a free 30-day trial too)

Camera modes

Firstly, shoot RAW. It gives you a higher-resolution image and more flexibility in editing, including the ability to change your white balance. Exposure compensation is also convenient to use when you are trying to balance shutter speed and light. You can adjust the exposure via the + to deliberately overexpose a bit if your subject is very dark. Consider putting the camera on silent mode so as not to startle the bird. Always use high-speed continuous and fire off short bursts of shots.

Camera Settings

Manual Mode

For perched birds, either nesting or on branches, go for ISO 100-200 in good light or Auto ISO on cloudy or low-light days. It helps to know how high an ISO your camera can handle before the image becomes noisy. You can then set the maximum ISO on your camera and use Auto ISO for birds. Select auto white balance and an F-stop of F4-5.6 to separate the bird from the background. Then, focus on the bird’s eye. For perched birds, go for a shutter speed of 1/500 to 1/1000

For birds in flight – you need a much faster shutter speed and continuous-servo autofocus (CAF). The shutter speed will also depend on how fast the bird flies. Birds like pelicans lumber along and are easy to catch in flight; smaller birds such as swallows, terns or the peregrine falcon are swift flyers. For these birds, you need a superfast shutter speed.

1. Use a fast lens with a long focal length: A fast lens with a long focal length, such as a 70-300mm or a 100-400mm, will allow you to capture birds in motion from a distance.
2. Choose a fast shutter speed: Start with a shutter speed of at least 1/2000th of a second or faster to freeze the motion of the birds in flight.
3. Use continuous autofocus mode: Switch to continuous autofocus mode to ensure that the camera is continuously tracking the bird as it moves.
4. Track the bird’s movement: Anticipate the bird’s movement and follow it with the camera, keeping the bird in the centre of the frame.
5. Experiment with burst mode: Use burst mode to capture a series of images in quick succession, increasing your chances of capturing a sharp, in-focus shot.
6. Pay attention to the background: Make sure the background is simple and not distracting, as it will draw the viewer’s eye away from the bird.
7. Be patient and persistent: Birds in flight can be elusive and difficult to capture, so be patient and persistent in your pursuit of great bird flight images.

Shutter Priority Mode

Shutter priority mode (also known as “Tv” mode) is a useful setting for bird photography as it allows you to control the shutter speed while the camera automatically sets the aperture to achieve the proper exposure. This mode is particularly helpful in capturing fast-moving birds, as you can set a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

1. Choose a fast shutter speed: Start with a shutter speed of at least 1/1000th of a second or faster. A fast shutter speed will help freeze the motion of the bird and reduce the risk of camera shake.
2. Use a tripod or bean bag for stability: Since you will be using a fast shutter speed, it’s important to have a stable platform to minimize camera shake and improve image quality.
3. Experiment with different shutter speeds: Try different shutter speeds to see the effect on the final image. Slower shutter speeds can create a sense of motion, while faster shutter speeds will freeze the motion.
4. Watch the aperture: The camera will automatically adjust the aperture to achieve the proper exposure, but keep an eye on the aperture value and adjust the ISO if necessary.
5. Use burst mode: using burst mode to capture a series of photos in quick succession, increases your chances of getting a sharp shot.
6. Be mindful of the lighting conditions: Keep in mind that you may need to adjust the shutter speed or ISO based on the lighting conditions. In low light, you may need to use a slower shutter speed or increase the ISO.

By using shutter priority mode and following these tips, you can capture sharp, dynamic bird images that show the beauty and grace of these creatures in motion.

Focus Points

Finding the subject in the frame is often tricky when using a long zoom lens. Spot metering and a centre focus point is usually the most sensitive and accurate focus point, making it a good choice for bird photography. However, experiment and try different focus points to see which one works best for your camera and the situation. I always use back-button focus: as it allows me to separate the focus and exposure functions of the camera. This will allow you to focus on the bird and lock the focus, allowing you to recompose the shot without the camera refocusing. Another point to remember – keep the bird’s eye in focus: When photographing birds, it’s important to keep the bird’s eye in focus as this is the most critical part of the bird to keep sharp.

Approaching birds

Research your subject: Learn about the birds you want to photograph, including their behaviour, habitat, and preferred food sources. This will help you anticipate their movements and get the shots you want. Getting close enough to get the shot is one of the most challenging parts of bird photography. Some birds will allow you to get quite close. Others are skittish and maintain a considerable distance (hello, long lens).

Try to blend in with your surroundings by wearing neutral-coloured clothing and using a camouflage cloth for your gear. Do not wear white, red or bright clothing; you need to blend into the surroundings. I have seen some very dedicated photographers wearing full camo clothing, including camo coverings on their cameras and lenses. That’s a bit extreme for me, so I dress in blues or khaki/tans. Avoid feeding birds or using bait to lure them, as this can lead to unnatural behaviour and negatively impact the birds’ health.

Walk quietly without chatter to minimise disturbance. If you spot a bird, walk slowly towards it. Try not to approach it when the bird is watching you, and walk forward slowly at a zig-zag angle. When you raise the camera to take a shot, do it slowly—no sudden movements. If possible, let the birds come to you. If you learn their behaviour and habitat, you can take a chair, bottle of water or thermos and settle down and wait for them. Then they aren’t taking off and fleeing when you suddenly appear on the scene.

Practice

Start with the ducks and magpies if you are a beginner at bird photography. Take a bag of seeds for the ducks (never feed them bread). Ducks and Pelicans are usually acclimated to human interaction. On one lake, I visited all the ducks, geese and swans swarmed toward any newcomer arriving as they were used to people feeding them. Photographing them will give you experience in getting the settings and compositions right. Next, look for walkthrough aviaries; you are guaranteed to get shots there. In Melbourne, both Melbourne Zoo and Serendip Sanctuary have walkthrough aviaries. Healesville Zoo has a daily bird of prey show.

Ten top tips

1. Use a fast lens with a long focal length to capture birds in motion.
2. Use a tripod or bean bag for stability.
3. Keep a fast shutter speed to freeze motion and avoid camera shake.
4. Use a high ISO to achieve faster shutter speeds in low light.
5. Pre-focus on a specific spot where you expect the bird to fly or perch.
6. Make use of continuous autofocus mode to track moving birds.
7. Experiment with different perspectives, such as shooting from above or below the bird.
8. Use natural light or flash to create proper exposure and add depth to your photos.
9. Pay attention to the background to avoid distracting elements or unwanted clutter.
10. Patience and persistence are key, as birds can be elusive and take time to observe and capture.

One last bit of advice

Get up early or stay out late: The best light for bird photography is often found in the early morning or late afternoon. Make a point to learn from the experts, look for bird photography workshops or classes, or study the work of professional bird photographers. YouTube holds a wealth of information and tutorials on bird photography.

The post Starting Your Journey: Tips and Tricks for Beginner Bird Photographers appeared first on Bevlea Ross Photography.

Appearance

The Welcome swallow is a small bird that only weighs 10 grams when fully grown. Their plumage is metallic blue-black on the upper back, light grey on the breast and belly, and russet on the forehead, throat and upper breast. Their long forked tail has a row of white spots on the individual feathers. The outer tail feathers (streamers) are slightly shorter in the female. Young Welcome Swallows have buffy white, instead of rust, on the forehead and throat and shorter tail streamers.

Habitat

While welcome swallows are widespread across Australia, they are more common in the south than in the north. They can be found across various habitats, from city buildings, farmland paddocks, wetlands, deserts, forests and grasslands. However, they are not commonly found in heavily forested or dry inland areas. At night they gather in flocks of up to 100 birds.

Diet

The diet of the Welcome Swallows consists of a wide variety of insects. They catch prey in flight, using their impressive acrobatic flying skills. The short bristles bordering their beak guide their prey into the swallow’s wide, open mouth. These bristles also help protect their eye. When insects are plentiful, Welcome Swallows feed in large flocks.

Breeding

Welcome swallows are monogamous, and the breeding season lasts from August until March. Their nest is an open cup of mud and grass built by both sexes. When complete, the female lays three to five eggs, often raising two broods in a season. The nesting sites cover various areas, from cities to rural regions attaching the nest to vertical walls, buildings, boats, tree hollows, caves,  cliffs and mine tunnels. Their cup-shaped nests are situated to avoid sunlight. Building the nest takes an average of 8–23 days and is often re-used for consecutive years of breeding.

When breeding, they usually work in pairs. However, they often form small groups to protect their nest and territory against predatory birds. Eggs are sized from 18 mm long and  13mm wide,  pink in colour with brown speckles. Male welcome swallows do not participate in incubating the eggs, as they forage while the female incubates. However, while the female forages, they take turns watching the nest for a short period or accompanying the female in foraging. Both parents feed the fledglings when the eggs hatch after 14 and 21 days. The fledglings remain in the nest for 18 to 23 days and are entirely independent at around 35 days.

Predators

Hawks, snakes, and feral cats are the main predators that hunt welcome swallows, with snakes their most dangerous predator. Snakes climb the trees to reach the nests and eat the eggs or the chicks. Another threat is the swallows’ excreta which contains various bacteria and parasites. These breed in the nest and cause severe diseases such as histoplasmosis, encephalitis, salmonella, meningitis and toxoplasmosis. 

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Appearance

Rainbow bee-eaters are medium-sized birds measuring 9-24 cm in length to the tail tip and weighing around 27 grams. They have a long curved bill, a long tail and streamers.  They have a golden crown on their head, and their red eye is set in a wide black stripe running from their ears to the base of the bill, which is edged in a narrow blue line.  Their yellow-orange throat has a broad black band separating it from their green breast. 

While the upper parts are green, they have copper flight feathers tipped in black and bright orange and underwings with a black edge.  The bee-eater’s lower abdomen is blue.  Female rainbow bee-eaters are similar to males but have shorter, thicker tail streamers. Juveniles are duller and greener and lack the black chest band and long tail streamers.

Habitat

The Rainbow Bee-eater is widespread throughout  Australia, except in desert areas. They can be found in woodlands, open forests and cleared areas, often near water and farms with remnant vegetation, in orchards and vineyards. They will also use quarries, river banks, cuttings and mines to build their nesting tunnels.

Diet

Rainbow Bee-eaters eat all insects, such as dragonflies, beetles, butterflies and moths; however, they mainly eat bees and wasps.  They have excellent eyesight and can spot a potential meal up to 150 feet away. Once they have spotted their prey, they swoop down from a high perch, snatching the insect on the wing in its long, slender bill. The bee-eater then carries their meal to a perch, where they beat the insect against the perch before swallowing them.

While immune to bee and wasp stings, they still rub them against the perch to remove the stings and venom glands before eating them. Rainbow bee-eaters can consume 700 bees daily, making them an apiarist’s enemy. Conversely, they also keep locusts, hornets and wasps under control.

Breeding

Rainbow Bee-eaters are migratory birds and move north, forming small flocks over winter. However, in spring, they return to breeding their areas.  Rainbow bee-eaters are monogamous and mate for life.  Once they have selected a nesting site in a sandy bank, they dig a long tunnel leading to the nesting chamber and line it with grass. The tunnel can be up to 90cm long.  The female will lay 3 to 7 glossy white eggs, and both parents share the 24-day incubation period and will feed the young.

Threats

Hatchlings are at risk from cane toads, dogs and foxes.

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Owls have long sparked our imaginations; their haunting night calls, silent flight, extraordinary hearing and deadly eyesight has seen them embedded in different cultures as symbols for magic, wisdom and mystery.

Bush Heritage

Characteristics

Owls are masters at silent flight. Their soft, uniquely structured feathers are serrated, affecting the movement of air over the wings. Additionally, the velvety surface of the feathers absorbs any sound made by flapping wings. Their silent flight allows them to pounce on prey with no warning. Owls have incredibly superior eyesight and hearing, and their forward-facing eyes grant them excellent depth perception, which is necessary for low-light hunting.

They can rotate their head 270 degrees, a vital asset when their eyes are fixed and cannot move within their sockets. In addition, their ears are asymmetrical on their head (at different heights on the side of their face), so the sounds reach each ear at different times, aiding them in identifying the exact location of their prey. Owls also have a facial disk around their eyes; this helps focus sounds to their ears, so they hear even the quietest sounds.

Behaviour

Owls are nocturnal (hunting only at night) though some are active at dawn and dusk. They are found in every state of Australia and vary significantly in size; they range from the smallest (Southern Boobook at 36cm tall and around 175g) to the largest (Powerful Owl at 60cm tall and 1.5kg). They live in various habitats, from snowy mountainous areas to deserts, from open wet forests to woodlands and grasslands. The Powerful Owl is territorial and has been known to attack humans, though most are solitary and shy.

Diet

Owls live on a diet of small to medium-sized mammals, birds and insects. Like most birds, they cannot chew and eat their prey whole or will tear off pieces with their powerful, sharp beaks if unable to do so. Some owls, such as the Sooty Owl, eat mainly tree-dwelling mammals such as sugar gliders and small possums. Others prefer land-dwelling lizards or mammals. Like other raptors, owls regurgitate the non-nutritious party of their prey. Several hours after eating, they will produce a pellet from their gizzards of fur and bone. They will then be ready to eat again.

Threats

Habit loss is the biggest threat to Australian owls as they rely on old-growth trees with hollows for nesting and breeding. These hollows take hundreds of years to form. Sadly, land clearing and bushfires are wiping out the hollows at an alarming rate. Another significant threat is secondary poisoning from eating prey such as foxes, feral cats, rabbits and rodents that have taken the bait. Poachers are also a concern, both as live specimens and eggs.

Status

No Australian owl species is on the national threatened species list. Some populations, however, such as the Powerful Owl in Victoria, are vulnerable, and the Masked owl is endangered in SA, Tasman and Victoria.

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Little eagles have short, broad heads with moderately long tails, square-cut at the tip when closed. They have two ‘phases’ in their colouring – a light and a dark phase. During the light phase, when in flight, they are often mistaken for the Whistling Kite. They have heavily feathered legs, and when perched, they have a short crest. The plumage varies from light to dark brown, with a pale broken ‘M’ on the upper parts, easily visible from a distance. The underside of the wing also has a pale M-shaped band. The broad wings have a span of one metre with dark tips.

Flight

The Little Eagle has a distinctive flight pattern of soaring in tight circles with flat wings. They advertise their territory by a soaring, undulating flight display and conspicuous perching and calling.

Habitat and Distribution

The habitat of the Little Eagle is dry eucalypt, sheoak or acacia woodlands, forests and open country. They tend to avoid rainforests and the densely forested area of the Great Dividing Range. Their distribution is widespread across mainland Australia and central and eastern New Guinea.

Diet

The Little Eagle is a raptor (bird of prey) and, as such, is a carnivore. They hunt for their prey on the wing or from a high, exposed perch, taking their prey on the ground or in the tree canopy. Their prey includes rabbits, other live mammals and insects and occasionally carrion. The Little Eagle originally ate a diet of small birds, mammals, and reptiles, sometimes supplementing with insects; however, their diet changed with the introduction of foxes and rabbits. As rabbits quickly became abundant across Australia, and they found them an ideal prey source, becoming their primary diet. However, the release of the Calicivirus in 1996 caused a sharp 65% to 85% decrease in the rabbit population. At the same time, the foxes were taking their traditional prey of mammals and reptiles. With rabbits now less abundant, they also have to compete against foxes for their traditional prey.

Breeding

Little Eagles breed annually. They make their nest in mature living trees in open woodland or alongside rivers and will rarely nest in isolated trees. Instead, they create a nest in an open bowl shape constructed of twigs and branches lined with leaves. The pair will build the nests in winter, and the female lays two to three eggs in spring. The female incubates eggs for the 37-day incubation period and then feeds the hatchlings while the male hunts for food. The male, however, will hatch the chicks while the female eats the food he has brought her. The chicks will fledge in summer.

In 2009 only three breeding pairs were recorded in the ACT. However, in the 2017-2018 breeding season, a minimum of nine nesting pairs of Little Eagles were confirmed in the ACT, with four more breeding pairs just over the border in NSW. Of those eight pairs, just one chick was raised. A Currawong destroyed one nest, another breeding pair lost their egg in a storm, and the other pairs either lost eggs to unknown means or did not lay.

Threats

The main threats to the species are secondary poisoning from rabbit baiting, plus fragmentation and degradation of its habitat. The habitat loss also causes the little Eagle to compete with the larger, more dominant Wedge-tail Eagle. Once common in the ACT, they have significantly declined by over 70% in the last 20 years.

Status

They are listed on the IUCN Red List as of least concern. The conservation status of the Little Eagle is secure in NT, Qld, SA, Vic and WA. However, it is considered vulnerable throughout NSW, with only a single population. The Little Eagle is not present in Tasmania. In NSW, the Environment Dept. has added the Little Eagle to the ‘Save our species‘ program. Among other measures, they plan to raise land managers’ awareness of the risks of secondary poisoning from using Pindone or second-generation rodenticides. Instead, they encourage alternative poisons and control techniques such as warren ripping.

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