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	<title>before and after Archives - Bevlea Ross Photography</title>
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		<title>Beyond Sharpness: The Expressive Power of Intentional Camera Blur</title>
		<link>https://www.bevleaross.com.au/intentional-camera-movement/</link>
					<comments>https://www.bevleaross.com.au/intentional-camera-movement/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Bevlea Ross]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Jul 2020 03:08:35 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Creative Photography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[before and after]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[high country]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[intentional camera movement]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trees]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.bevleaross.com.au/?p=2114</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>Intentional Camera Blur isn&#8217;t a new technique by any means. It&#8217;s been around for years but isn&#8217;t that widely known. It&#8217;s simple and easy to do. Deliberately move the camera while the shutter is open, and you get a nice abstract, painterly look. It&#8217;s not your normal blurred lack of focus image &#8211; it&#8217;s a deliberate and rather cool effect. There are, however, different techniques for doing it, and I will cover that here. Sharpness is a bourgeois concept Henri [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/intentional-camera-movement/">Beyond Sharpness: The Expressive Power of Intentional Camera Blur</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.bevleaross.com.au">Bevlea Ross Photography</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[
<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Intentional Camera Blur isn&#8217;t a new technique by any means.  It&#8217;s been around for years but isn&#8217;t that widely known.  It&#8217;s simple and easy to do.  Deliberately move the camera while the shutter is open, and you get a nice abstract, painterly look.  It&#8217;s not your normal blurred lack of focus image &#8211; it&#8217;s a deliberate and rather cool effect.  There are, however, different techniques for doing it, and I will cover that here.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-pullquote"><blockquote><p>Sharpness is a bourgeois concept</p><cite><a href="https://www.henricartierbresson.org/en/hcb/biography/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Henri Cartier-Bresson</a></cite></blockquote></figure>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" width="1000" height="666" src="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8521-Copy.jpg" alt="Intentional Camera Movement" class="wp-image-2116" srcset="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8521-Copy.jpg 1000w, https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8521-Copy-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8521-Copy-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">F22, ISO 100, 0.4sec &#8211; handheld,  late afternoon</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<h5 class="wp-block-heading">The Unprepared Way</h5>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">This is my usual method.  I go out planning landscapes or wildlife and come across a forest of tall, straight trees that take my fancy.  Sometimes I have my CPL with me, but unless I was going waterfall hunting, I wouldn&#8217;t normally have the ND filters, so I always improvised.</p>



<h5 class="wp-block-heading">Settings for intentional camera blur</h5>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">The whole idea is to set your camera for a longer exposure (to allow you to move it while the shutter is open) without overexposing it.  To do this, I set my F stop as high as it can go, which, on my camera, is F22.  Next, I lower the ISO to as low as I can go.  On the old Canon 7D, it was 100, but on the Olympus, I can get down to 64.  These two settings will allow you exposure anywhere from 1/2 second to a couple &#8211; depending on if it&#8217;s a cloudy or sunny day (and if you are clever enough to have that CPL or ND in the bag). </p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img decoding="async" width="1000" height="666" src="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8480-Copy.jpg" alt="Intentional Camera Movement" class="wp-image-2115" srcset="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8480-Copy.jpg 1000w, https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8480-Copy-300x200.jpg 300w, https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8480-Copy-768x511.jpg 768w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">F22, ISO 100, 1/5 sec handheld, in sunshine</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Once you have your settings dialled in, focus on your subject &#8211; don&#8217;t just shoot and move the camera.  Then it&#8217;s just a matter of pressing the shutter &#8211; and moving the camera simultaneously.   I favour a short, quick upward motion when shooting the trees.  It is trial and error.  The entire process depends on your movement &#8211; fast will blur a lot, and slower will blur a little.  I usually come home with many images, then cull down to those I like.</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img decoding="async" width="666" height="1000" src="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8484-Copy.jpg" alt="Intentional Camera Movement" class="wp-image-2117" srcset="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8484-Copy.jpg 666w, https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8484-Copy-200x300.jpg 200w" sizes="(max-width: 666px) 100vw, 666px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">F22, ISO 100, 1/5 sec, handheld, in sunshine</figcaption></figure>
</div>


<p class="wp-block-paragraph">I have done both handheld and on a tripod.  Handheld works fine. The tripod works fine. I didn&#8217;t find one worked better than the other.  I used the tripod because the camera was already on it, and I was too lazy to take it off.</p>



<h5 class="wp-block-heading">The Prepared Way (in manual mode)</h5>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Being prepared or mindful of the possibility of getting some ICM (intentional camera movement) while out and about means you have an ND Filter &#8211; something around ND 4 or 6 or a CPL in your bag.  This will darken down your scene and allow you to shoot at a lower Fstop or longer shutter speed.  Otherwise, the settings are the same &#8211; lower the ISO, and if you shoot manually, adjust the shutter speed to suit.</p>



<h5 class="wp-block-heading">Shoot in Shutter Priority</h5>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">Another way is to shoot in Shutter Priority mode, set the ISO to the lowest &#8211; set the F stop to the highest and let the camera choose the shutter speed.  You can also use an ND or CPL to lower the shutter speed further.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-jetpack-image-compare"><div class="juxtapose" data-mode="horizontal"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" id="2120" src="https://i2.wp.com/www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_8478-Copy.jpg?ssl=1" alt="" width="1000" height="666" class="image-compare__image-before"/><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" id="6187" src="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/IMG_8479.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="800" class="image-compare__image-after"/></div></figure>



<div class="elfsight-app-892d3c6f-a76b-4f50-88fb-25e8172ec15a">&nbsp;</div>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">In the above slider, you can see the before and after the settings change.  The before was taken to get my settings and exposure correct &#8211; the after is the second photo taken with the ICM. It can turn a bland scene into something quite appealing.</p>


<div class="wp-block-image">
<figure class="aligncenter size-large"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" width="750" height="1000" src="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/P6270373.jpg" alt="Intentional Camera Movement" class="wp-image-2124" srcset="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/P6270373.jpg 750w, https://www.bevleaross.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/P6270373-225x300.jpg 225w" sizes="(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">F22, ISO 64, 2.0sec &#8211; on a tripod, cloudy day<br></figcaption></figure>
</div>


<h5 class="wp-block-heading">In a nutshell</h5>



<ul class="wp-block-list">
<li>Lowest ISO</li>



<li>highest F stop &#8211; around F22</li>



<li>shutter speed to suit (or use shutter priority mode)</li>



<li>focus on your subject </li>



<li>move the camera while the shutter is open </li>



<li>follow vertical lines in your composition &#8211; horizontal for beaches, vertical for trees</li>
</ul>



<p class="wp-block-paragraph">With intentional camera blur, how much is too blurred or not blurred enough is entirely up to your own personal tastes.  As you can see, I like trees&#8230; you can do a horizontal one at the beach &#8211; or a completely abstract one by twisting it.  I would love to see your images in the comments if you found this useful.</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.bevleaross.com.au/intentional-camera-movement/">Beyond Sharpness: The Expressive Power of Intentional Camera Blur</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.bevleaross.com.au">Bevlea Ross Photography</a>.</p>
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