Background and Objectives

Major Thomas Mitchell, a Scottish Surveyor-General of New South Wales, had established himself as a prominent explorer through two earlier expeditions. By the mid-1830s, European settlers in New South Wales were increasingly interested in expanding their grazing lands and discovering new areas suitable for agriculture. Reports about promising territories to the south heightened the need for further exploration.

To address this, Mitchell’s third expedition was authorised with two primary objectives:

1. Investigate the course of the Darling River, which he had partially explored during his second expedition.

2. Explore the lands south of the Murray River to assess their potential for European settlement.

This journey promised to provide vital insights into Australia’s interior and open new frontiers for settlement.

Preparation and Team

Mitchell’s expedition team was meticulously organised and consisted of soldiers, convicts, and Aboriginal guides. The group also included skilled surveyors and draftsmen to map the terrain and hunters and labourers to ensure the journey was well-supplied. They relied on seventy animals, such as horses, oxen, carts, two boats and a boat cart to transport necessary supplies, including provisions, scientific instruments, and weapons.

One of the most notable expedition members was John Piper, a Wiradjuri guide whose knowledge of the land and its resources proved invaluable. Indigenous guides like Piper were essential for navigating Australia’s challenging landscapes.

The Journey

The expedition began in Sydney in March 1836. Mitchell and his team travelled southwest, crossing the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee Rivers before reaching the Murray River. They encountered diverse terrain throughout their journey, including dense forests, open plains, and numerous river crossings. The expedition faced several challenges, such as harsh weather, problematic river fords, and occasional conflicts with local Aboriginal groups.

Crossing into Victoria

Upon crossing the Murray River into what is now Victoria, Mitchell and his team entered a landscape strikingly different from the arid regions they had previously explored. They encountered rolling plains, abundant watercourses, and lush vegetation—a sharp contrast to the harsher environments of New South Wales and central Australia.

Mitchell was deeply impressed by the fertility and beauty of this region. He described it as “a land flowing with milk and honey,” using a Biblical phrase highlighting its agricultural potential. Convinced of its promise for European settlement, Mitchell named the region “Australia Felix,” which is Latin for “Happy Australia” or “Fortunate Australia.”

Further Exploration

The expedition continued westward, travelling through the Wimmera region until it reached the Grampians mountain range. It then continued past Mt Macedon and crossed the Goulburn River at Tallarook before travelling past Nagambie Lagoon, Wharing, Euroa, and Violet Town before returning to Sydney. Mitchell’s detailed observations and maps highlighted the area’s abundant natural resources, including fertile soils, lush grasslands, and ample water supplies. These features made the region ideal for grazing and farming, perfectly aligning with the ambitions of European settlers.

The team’s journey also provided valuable insights into the local flora and fauna. Mitchell documented numerous species of plants and animals, many of which were unfamiliar to European naturalists at the time.

Encounters with Indigenous Peoples

Throughout the expedition, Mitchell and his team encountered various Aboriginal groups who had lived in these lands for tens of thousands of years. These interactions ranged from friendly exchanges to moments of tension and conflict.

Mitchell’s journal reflects a complex and often contradictory perspective on Indigenous Australians. While he occasionally admired their knowledge of the land and resourcefulness, his expedition inevitably disrupted local communities. In some instances, misunderstandings or perceived threats led to violent confrontations, further exacerbating tensions between Europeans and Indigenous peoples.

One of the most controversial incidents took place near the Murray River, where Mitchell’s party clashed with local Barkindjii Aboriginal groups. This violence resulted in seven Barkindji being killed and four wounded. While Mitchell’s writings framed the event as a defensive action, modern interpretations view it as part of a broader resistance pattern against colonisation.

…….It was difficult to come at such enemies hovering in our rear with lynx-eyed vigilance of savages. I succeeded however… Attacked simultaneously by both parties the whole betook themselves to the river, my men pursuing them and shooting as many as they could, numbers were shot swimming across the Murray, and some ever after they had reached the opposite shore as they descended the bank

Major Mitchell’s report

Mitchell named the site of the attack Mount Dispersion. He faced an inquiry in Sydney afterwards but received only a minor reprimand for his actions. On May 27, 2020, the 184th anniversary of the killings, the New South Wales government officially designated Mount Dispersion as an Aboriginal place, granting it legal recognition and protection as a significant site.

Return and Reports

In November 1836, Mitchell and his team returned to Sydney after completing a nearly eight-month journey. His detailed reports and maps vividly illustrated Australia Felix, highlighting its agricultural potential and natural beauty. Mitchell’s accounts were widely published and quickly captured the imagination of settlers eager to expand into new territories.

The discovery of Australia Felix marked a turning point in the colonisation of southeastern Australia. Within a few years, settlers began to move into the region, establishing sheep stations and farms. The area’s rich pastures proved to be ideal for grazing, contributing to the rapid growth of Australia’s wool industry.

Legacy of the Australia Felix Expedition

The Australia Felix expedition is significant in Australian exploration and settlement history. Major Thomas Mitchell is well-known for his role in mapping and documenting the region, but his legacy invites critical reflection.

From a colonial viewpoint, the expedition symbolises success in discovery and progress. Mitchell’s work facilitated the expansion of European settlement and contributed to Australia’s economic growth and development. The region’s fertile lands remain vital to Victoria’s agricultural industry today.

However, the expedition’s impact on Indigenous peoples reveals a darker aspect of colonisation. The displacement, violence, and cultural loss experienced by Aboriginal communities highlight the human cost of European expansion into Australia’s interior.

Conclusion

The Australia Felix expedition is a pivotal moment in Australian history, embodying both the aspirations and consequences of European colonisation. Major Thomas Mitchell’s journey revealed the potential of southeastern Australia’s fertile lands, opening new frontiers for settlement and economic development. Yet, it also marked the beginning of profound and often devastating changes for the region’s Indigenous inhabitants.

Today, the story of Australia Felix reminds us of the complexities of exploration and colonisation. It invites reflection on the achievements and challenges of Australia’s past, fostering a deeper understanding of the nation’s diverse history and its enduring legacies.

Footnote

In 2023, Birdlife Australia renamed the Major Mitchell Cockatoo to ‘Pink Cockatoo’. The name change was made to: 

• Remove the association with Thomas Mitchell, who led a massacre of Aboriginal people in 1836 
• Make species names more culturally inclusive 
• Avoid associating culturally important organisms with violence and murder

further reading

Journey Map

Explorers Way Brochure

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Historical Background

The history and growth of Lanyon Homestead are closely intertwined with the early European settlement in the Australian Capital Territory (ACT). In 1835, James Wright and his partner, John Lanyon, took out a pastoral lease of a large tract of land along the Murrumbidgee River, which was a vital water source in the otherwise arid Australian landscape.

Initially, the property was used for sheep grazing and cattle farming, taking advantage of the fertile plains and the river. By 1841, 59 workers lived on the estate, around half of them convicts. Eventually, John Lanyon returned to England, and James Wright took over the running of the estate. Wright, however, faced numerous challenges, including droughts and financial difficulties. This ultimately led him to sell Lanyon Homestead in the 1840s.

The estate then changed hands several times before it was acquired by the Cunningham family in 1849. The Cunninghams, a prominent pastoralist family, expanded the estate’s operations. They also built additional buildings and developed the homestead into a thriving rural enterprise.

In 1926, the estate was sold to the Osborne family. They, in turn, sold it to the Field family in 1930. The Fields, however, didn’t live at the estate but used it as a holiday home. While the Fields improved the old dairy and machinery, they respected the history of the house and buildings.

Architecture and Layout

Lanyon Homestead’s architecture blends Georgian and Victorian styles, reflecting the preferences of affluent rural homesteads in 19th-century Australia. The main homestead building, constructed in the 1850s, is a single-story house with a low-pitched roof and wide verandas. It also has thick walls designed to keep the interior cool during hot summers. It is built from locally sourced stone and features timber-framed windows, offering views of the surrounding gardens and the river.

One of Lanyon’s standout features is its meticulously maintained gardens, which include a variety of native and introduced plant species. The gardens were an essential part of the estate’s self-sufficiency, providing fresh herbs, vegetables, and flowers for the household.

The estate also includes various outbuildings, such as the woolshed, stables, blacksmith’s shop, and workers’ quarters. These provide a window to the past and illustrate the labour-intensive nature of pastoral life during the 19th century.

Life at Lanyon Homestead

Life at Lanyon Homestead during the 19th and early 20th centuries was centred around agriculture and livestock, mainly sheep farming. The estate produced wool, meat, and other agricultural products essential to the local economy. The river provided irrigation, which was critical for livestock and crop cultivation, allowing the estate to thrive even in challenging conditions.

The homestead was a family residence, but it also functioned as the centre of a small rural community. The Cunninghams employed many workers, including shepherds, stockmen, blacksmiths, and domestic staff, who lived on or near the property. The workers’ quarters, some of which have been preserved, highlight the contrast between the lives of the estate owners and those of the workers. While the Cunninghams enjoyed a degree of comfort and refinement inside the homestead, the workers faced a more rugged and physically demanding lifestyle.

The social life at Lanyon Homestead reflected its time. The family hosted gatherings, picnics, and social events common in rural communities. The homestead would have also been a place where neighbours gathered to exchange news and celebrate important events.

Lanyon Homestead Today

In the early to mid-1970s, the McMahon and Whitlam Governments withdrew the rural leases for Lanyon, Cuppacumbalong Homestead and Gold Creek Homestead. The Federal Government then compulsorily acquired Lanyon for $3.7m in 1974.

Today, Lanyon Homestead is managed by the ACT Government and is open to the public as a museum and cultural site. It is part of the ACT Historic Places network, which aims to preserve the region’s heritage and cultural history. The homesteads guided tours, exhibitions, and educational programs provide information about the estate’s history and the stories of those who lived there.

Visitors to Lanyon Homestead can take a tour through the original rooms. These have been furnished with period-appropriate furniture and artefacts to recreate the atmosphere of a 19th-century rural home. The preserved interiors provide a glimpse into the Cunningham family’s daily lives and domestic routines. Original furnishings, kitchenware, and personal items are on display. The tours also highlight the challenges and hardships the estate’s residents faced. Isolation, disease bushfires and floods were ever-present threats.

Cultural Significance

Lanyon Homestead is a well-preserved example of a 19th-century rural estate and an important site for understanding the broader history of European settlement in the Canberra region. It provides insights into the pastoral economy that dominated Australia’s rural development and the complex interaction between settlers and the Indigenous Ngunnawal people, who have lived there for thousands of years.

In recent years, efforts have been made to recognise and incorporate the region’s Indigenous history into the homestead’s narrative. This includes acknowledging the land’s traditional custodians and highlighting the Murrumbidgee River’s cultural and spiritual significance to the Ngunnawal people. By doing so, the homestead serves as a place of reflection and education, encouraging visitors to consider both the achievements and the darker aspects of Australia’s colonial past.

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The Curtain fig tree, similar to the Cathedral Fig Tree in Danbulla National Park, is a gigantic strangler fig tree estimated to be more than 500 years old. It boasts a trunk circumference of approximately 39 meters (128 feet) and is about 50 meters (160 feet) tall. The tree’s canopy spans an impressive 30 meters (98 feet) in every direction from its trunk, making it an awe-inspiring sight to behold.

The Cathedral Fig tree is towering and upright, while the Curtain Fig tree is slightly different. It fell and leaned against a neighbouring tree when its host rotted away, and over time, it also consumed that tree too. As a result, it now lies at an angle, creating an impressive curtain-like appearance.

Forest fauna

Once a host tree has fully decomposed, it creates a hollow area that provides a natural home for various animals. These animals, such as birds, bats, rodents, and insects, utilise the hollow space as a secure shelter, nesting site, or food storage area. The Papuan Frogmouth, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, reptiles, possums, and Lumholtz’s tree kangaroos are some species that inhabit the area around the tree. Furthermore, succulent fruits from strangler figs attract Rose-crowned Fruit Doves, Emerald Fruit Doves, and Pale-yellow and Grey-headed Robins. In the Curtain fig tree national park, forty-one bird species are listed as inhabitants.

Life Cycle of Strangler Figs

The life cycle of a strangler fig tree begins with a seed that an animal drops onto the branch of a host tree. The seed germinates and begins to grow as an epiphyte, meaning that it does not have its own roots in the ground. Instead, it gets its nutrients from the host tree.

As the strangler fig grows, it produces aerial roots which gradually descend along the trunk of the host tree, until they finally reach the ground. Upon contact with the ground, these roots start to absorb essential nutrients and water from the soil. This enables the strangler fig to thrive and grow bigger, eventually becoming self-sustaining.

The aerial roots of the strangler fig play a crucial role in supporting its growth. These roots wrap around the host tree trunk, forming a latticework that keeps the strangler fig steady and upright. Gradually, the fig’s roots will cover the host tree trunk, impeding the flow of nutrients and water, leading to the death of the host tree. However, the strangler fig will keep growing and eventually stand independently as a tree.

As time passes, the strangler fig tree steadily thrives and develops, yielding fruits that lure in wildlife to assist in spreading its seeds. This process repeats over and over again. Subsequently, the strangler fig tree becomes the host for other plants and trees, helping to create a rich and diverse ecosystem.

Waps and Fig Tree

The hollow spaces inside the strangler fig trees also play a vital role in the tree’s reproductive cycle. Many species of figs rely on specific wasps to pollinate their flowers and disperse their seeds. Significantly, each species of the fig wasp is only able to fertilise the flowers of one species of the fig tree. The female wasp bores into the fig and deposits her eggs. In the process, the wasp fertilises many of the surrounding flowers.

As the larvae grow, they secrete a substance that prevents the fig fruit from reaching maturity. This mechanism is crucial in protecting both the larvae and the fruit from being consumed. When the larvae mature, they emerge from the fig and fly off to find a new fig tree to lay their eggs.

Getting there

From Cairns, drive to Yungburra and head towards Atherton along the Gillies Range Rd. Then turn onto Fig Tree Road. A short drive down this road takes you to the carpark. From the carpark, it’s a short 180m return walk along an elevated boardwalk to the tree.

Strangler figs are a fascinating example of how plants can adapt to their environment. They are able to grow in dark and shady areas where other plants would not be able to survive. And they are able to kill their host trees, which frees up resources for the strangler fig to grow even larger.

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Early History

The Blue Mountains and the Great Dividing Range presented a formidable obstacle to the early European pioneers who sought to settle and explore Sydney and its surrounding areas. These settlers viewed the range as an intimidating wall of sandstone cliffs, deep gorges, and thick vegetation. Due to the challenging terrain, settlements were limited to coastal areas, and the seemingly impenetrable mountains made it difficult if not impossible for pioneers to venture beyond these areas. Consequently, the Blue Mountains remained largely unexplored for many years.

This all changed, however, when in 1813, Gregory Blaxland, William Charles Wentworth, and William Lawson set out to cross the Blue Mountains to find a way into the unknown interior of Australia. Unlike many before them, they successfully crossed the mountains, completely the journey in only three weeks and reached the western plains. Thus becoming the first Europeans to do so. Previous explorers had looked for a route through the valleys. Unlike previous explorers, Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson’s expedition crossed the mountains by traversing the ridges rather than the valleys. Their journey opened the interior to further exploration and settlement, eventually leading to the development of new towns and communities beyond the mountains.

World Heritage Listing

The Blue Mountains was added to the World Heritage Register in 2000 due to it’s exceptional natural beauty, biodiversity and outstanding examples of global geological processes. The site also includes the Blue Mountains National Park and several adjacent conservation reserves, covering approximately 1.03 million hectares.

The region is well-known for its rugged sandstone cliffs, deep canyons, and eucalyptus forests. It boasts a rich biodiversity with diverse plant and animal species. The Blue Mountains is also home to numerous Indigenous cultural sites, such as rock art, ceremonial grounds, and scarred trees, which hold significant cultural value for the area.

The Three Sisters

The iconic Three Sisters at Echo Point are three sandstone peaks that rise from the Jamison Valley below. The peaks are named Meehni, Wimlah, and Gunnedoo and are said to be named after three Indigenous sisters. According to local legend, the sisters were turned to stone by a witch doctor to protect them from an unwanted marriage. The Three Sisters is a significant Indigenous cultural site, and the local Indigenous community consider it a sacred site. It is also a popular spot for hiking and rock climbing, and visitors can take a scenic walk to the base of the formation.

The Jenolan Caves

The caves are a complex system of twenty-two limestone caves and are over 340 million years old. Apart from being considered one of the most spectacular cave systems in the world, they are also the oldest caves in Australia. Within Jenolan Caves are an extensive network of underground passageways and limestone formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and helictites.

The caves were first discovered by Europeans in the early 1800s, and before long, became a popular tourist destination. Today, the Jenolan Caves are one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Blue Mountains. Visitors can take various guided tours and activities, including self-guided, adventure-caving, and lantern-lit tours. The caves are also a significant site for speleology and have been the subject of much scientific study.

Lennox Bridge

The Lennox Bridge is a historic sandstone arch in the Blue Mountains, New South Wales, Australia. It was designed and built by Scottish stonemason David Lennox between 1833 and 1837. Significantly, the bridge is the oldest surviving stone bridge on mainland Australia and spans the historic Mitchell’s Pass over the Coxs River. It is a particularly popular spot for tourists and photographers. The bridge is also listed on the New South Wales State Heritage Register.

The Hydro Majestic Hotel

The Hydro Majestic Hotel is an iconic hotel situated in Medlow Bath. Constructed by Mark Foy, a prosperous Australian businessman and theatrical impresario, in 1904. The hotel boasts an Edwardian style of architecture with a blend of Art Nouveau and Federation designs. It’s grandeur and unique architecture make it a significant landmark. The United States Department of Defence occupied the Hydro for a brief period during WWII, and it served as a hospital for American casualties from battles in the Coral Sea and South Pacific.

The hotel underwent several renovations over the years. Today it continues to operate as a hotel, offering accommodation, dining, and spa services. The Hydro Majestic Hotel is listed on the New South Wales State Heritage Register for its architectural and historical significance. It is undoubtedly considered one of the Blue Mountains’ most iconic heritage buildings.

The Katoomba Scenic Railway

The scenic railway is a historic railway forming part of the Blue Mountains Line, connecting Katoomba to the Jamison Valley below. Known for its 52° steep gradient, it descends over 300 meters (984 feet) through a cliff-side tunnel. It is one of the steepest railways in the world.

The railway was constructed in the early 1900s for the transportation of passengers and goods. As of now, it still functions as a tourist attraction, providing visitors with a picturesque journey through the Blue Mountains.

Govetts Leap

Govetts Leap is a scenic lookout in the Blue Mountains’ Blackheath area. The lookout offers a panoramic view of the Grose Valley, a deep gorge carved by the Grose River, named after William Romaine Govett, a surveyor who was the first European to discover the viewpoint in 1831. Govetts Leap lookout is a popular spot for tourists and hikers, offering a range of short and long walks.

Govetts Leap also offers breathtaking views of the Bridal Veil waterfall, a popular photography spot. The view of the valley is considered one of the most spectacular in the Blue Mountains. It’s a must-visit destination for anyone visiting the area.

Waterfalls

Within the Blue Mountains are several beautiful waterfalls. Some of the most popular waterfalls in the area are the following:

Best time to visit

The best time to visit the Blue Mountains in New South Wales, Australia, depends on your personal preferences and the activities you plan to do.

• Spring (September-November): The weather is mild, and the wildflowers bloom. It is also an excellent time for bushwalking and enjoying the area’s natural beauty.
• Summer (December-February): The weather is warm, and the days are long, making it the perfect time for swimming and picnicking.
• Autumn (March-May) – The weather is mild, and the trees are changing colours. It’s an excellent time for photography and scenic drives (and also a perfect time to pop over to Mount Wilson)
• Winter (June-August): The weather can be cold, but the crowds are minimal. However, it is an excellent time for those cosy fireside and log cabin holidays and winter sports like skiing and snowboarding.

The Blue Mountains provide a diverse range of experiences throughout the year, with each season offering something special. It is essential to remember that peak season can get quite busy, so it’s wise to consider this when organising your trip.

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His images made him famous as an American West photographer, particularly those of Yosemite National Park, and he used his work and fame to promote the conservation of wilderness areas.  In addition, his iconic black-and-white images helped to establish photography among the fine arts.

The Early Years

Born in San Francisco on Feb 20, 1902, he was the son of a businessman and grandson of a wealthy timber baron.  At age four, he fell face first into a garden wall during an aftershock of the 1906 earthquake. This resulted in a badly broken nose, and the injury marked him for life. Then, at age five, his family lost their fortune in the financial panic of 1907.

As a naturally shy child with a distinctive broken nose, he struggled to fit in at school.  While never diagnosed, it is widely believed he had Dyslexia and possibly ADHD.  Unsuccessful at the several schools he was sent to, he left school aged twelve.  From then on, he was tutored by his father and aunt.

A photographer emerges

Adams was 12 yrs old when he taught himself to play the piano and read music.  He then began taking lessons and intended to become a concert pianist. Being tutored at home gave him the freedom to enjoy long solitary walks in the still wild areas of the Golden Gate.  He would hike the dunes or walk along Lobos Creek and Bakers Beach daily.  His first visit to Yosemite was in 1916 at age fourteen. Carrying the Kodak Box Brownie, a gift from his parents, he hiked, climbed and explored Yosemite.  In 1919 Adams joined the Sierra Club and spent the next four summers in Yosemite Valley as “keeper” of the club’s lodge.

Yosemite Calls

Adams first published photographs appeared in the Sierra Club Bulletin in 1922. In 1928 Adams married Virginia Best, an aspiring singer and the daughter of landscape painter Harry Best. They had met in 1921 when she was 17 years old and he was 19 through their shared love of music.

The wedding followed a six-week courtship and a three-day engagement. The couple were avid hikers, and Best was also a member of the Sierra Club. They wed at the base of a 617-foot waterfall called Bridalveil and, naturally, honeymooned at Yosemite. Their first child, Michael, arrived in 1933, followed by Anne in 1935. Unfortunately, Adams missed the birth of both children, being away on photographic assignments at the time.

Visualisation

In 1927 Adams published his most famous image  – ‘Monolith, The Face of the Half Dome“. To get the shot he wanted, he climbed a rock cliff known as the ‘Diving Board’, a steep outcrop 3,500 metres above the Yosemite Valley.

When taking his image of the Half Dome – Adams said he had a vision of what he wanted the image to look like. This led to his visualisation technique. First, he composed the picture in his mind and then factored in tonal values. He felt this would lead to near-perfect negatives.

Adams took his first image using a yellow filter, but it wasn’t quite what he wanted. Then, using his last glass plate, he took another image using a red filter. This filter brightened the snow, created a dark sky and caused the rock face to glow in the midday sun.

Honing his craft

In 1929 he was hired as a photographer for the marketing department of Yosemite Park and Curry Company (the only lodging and dining provider for Yosemite National Park). The company wanted Adams to publish bold, captivating photographs to lure more tourists to Yosemite. To this end, the marketing department coached Adams about the most effective approach to making photographs.

In a letter, the head of the Yosemite Park and Curry Company instructed Adams that, when taking a winter photograph, he should only shoot trees and houses “heavily ladened with freshly fallen snow.” Likewise, Adams was told to take photographs of only the best-dressed ice skaters using the valley’s ice rink.

The Conversation

Straight Photography

Adams also met and became influenced by Albert. M. Benders, a San Francisco patron of the arts. Benders’ financial support and encouragement transformed Adams. Looking at Adams’s High Sierra photography, he declared they had to do a portfolio of them. Bender made all the arrangements for an edition of 100 portfolios, each 18 images, to be sold for $50 each.  He also ordered ten copies for himself and handed Adams a check for $500 (approximately $8,500 today). Bender then got on the phone, lining up more supporters until half of the edition was pre-sold.

That same year Adams also met photographer Paul Strand.  Strands’ images also had a significant impact on Adams.  Adams turned away from the “pictorial” style of painterly, soft focus images he had previously used and began to concentrate on “straight photography” (also known as ‘pure’ photography). Before long, Adams was straight photography’s most articulate and emphatic champion.

The title ‘straight’ photography is, however, somewhat contradictory. Adams still used manipulation in his techniques and would spend hours in the darkroom dodging and burning his prints.

Bests Studio

By 1934 Adams was elected to the Sierra Club’s board of directors. In 1936 Virginia’s father, Harry Best, suddenly passed. She inherited Best’s Studio in Yosemite and, for 36 years, ran what is now The Ansel Adams Gallery. In 1937, Adams left the Yosemite Park and Curry Company to concentrate on his fine art photography, and the couple moved to Yosemite to take over the management of Bests Studio. Living in Yosemite, Adams now had access to the wilderness on his doorstep during all seasons and times of the day.   He was now firmly established as a Sierra Nevada photographer and a Yosemite defender.

That same year, his Yosemite darkroom caught fire resulting in the loss of 5000 negatives. In 1941 he formulated the ‘zone system’ with Fred Archer, a technique dividing the negative into 11 zones and ranking tones from pure white to pure black plus eleven greys. Adams used this technique in developing negatives.

Commercial Work

While Adams was well known for his landscapes, it wasn’t until the later years that they provided him with a steady income. He often accepted work as a commercial photographer to keep the bills paid and allow for his creative pursuits. For example, in 1969, his Winter Morning in Yosemite Valley was licensed to the Hill Brothers Coffee Company, appearing on their 3lb tins. The tins still fetch up to $1000 when they come up for auction.

Japanese Internment

In 1943 Adams collaborated with Dorothea Lange on Japanese Internment images. He photographed the internment camp at Manzanar, one of the many camps the government put up for the detained Japanese-Americans. His pictures depicted the detainees’ discriminatory treatment at the U.S Government’s hands. In 1965, he donated his internment collection of more than 200 photographs to the Library of Congress.

 “The purpose of my work was to show how these people, suffering under a great injustice, and loss of property, businesses and professions, had overcome the sense of defeat and dispair [sic] by building for themselves a vital community in an arid (but magnificent) environment … All in all, I think this Manzanar Collection is an important historical document, and I trust it can be put to good use.”

Ansel Adams

Career highlights & Awards

• Lectured and taught courses at the Museum of Modern Art
• Assisted in the establishment of the department of photography at the California School of Fine Arts
• Received three Guggenheim Fellowships
• Became a consultant for Polaroid
• Named on President Johnson’s environmental taskforce
• Founded ‘The Centre for Creative Photography at the University of Arizona
• “Yosemite and the Range of Light”, a book published which went on to sell over two hundred thousand copies
• Awarded Presidential Medal of Freedom by President Jimmy Carter
• Presented with  Decoration of “Commander of the Order of the Arts and Letters”, the highest cultural award given by the French government to a foreigner

Ansel Adams, the technical genius of the camera and avid conservationist, passed away in Community Hospital California at age 82 due to a recurring heart problem. As a result of his tireless work, in 1984, the Ansel Adams Wilderness area of more than 100,000 acres was named after him. In addition, in 1985, Mount Ansel Adams, an 11,760-foot peak in Yosemite, was named after him on the anniversary of his death.

Virginia Best Adams outlived Ansel by 19 years, passing away in January 2000, aged 96.

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In NSW, with no lockdown in place, everyone continued living life as usual. Rock climbing in the Spud mountains was popular. Those new to the sport practised on Choc Chip Mountain before moving to a more challenging climb on icy Donut Peak.

The Plan

Fed-up with self-isolation, unemployed, and not seeing family or friends, when the extension to lockdown was announced, Tom decided to leave Victoria and head to Queensland. Though the border to NSW remained closed, he vowed to take his canoe and slip across the border under the cover of darkness. 

Pushing off into the Murray River from Wodonga, he silently slipped into Albury. Arriving undetected, he concealed his canoe under branches on the river bank and went looking for breakfast. Coming across a waterworks crew repairing a sewer pipe, he asked for directions to a cafe.

Tom’s mate Bill lived in northern NSW and had plenty to do on the weekend. So on the morning, Tom slipped into Albury, Bill took the local scout troop out hiking. Unlike in Victoria, camping was still allowed, though finding a suitable spot to camp in the Breadline Mountains was proving difficult, and unexpected snow meant the troop lost the track. So while the troop waited back at camp, Bill went for help through Sweet Potato Canyon. 

While Bill was seeking help, Bill’s sister Beryl and the family took to the slopes.

Meanwhile back in Victoria……….

Very few pulled a sick day in Victoria unless they were actually ill. Going to work meant you could actually get out of the house and be more than 5kms from home. However, you had to show proof if you came across a random police check.

Consumption of food and alcohol had exploded in iso, and keeping up with the supply of olives for pizzas and martinis was a never-ending task. It was made doubly difficult when Tom didn’t show up for his weekend shift. The supervisor was demanding to know where the hell was he?

Tom was actually making good time. Passing himself off as a Danish backpacker named Tomas, who was stuck here when the borders closed, he hitched a lift with a truck taking local Melbourne parcels to Sydney via Adelaide for sorting. Not wanting to go near Sydney, he asked the driver to drop him off in Goulburn.   Tom then spent a warm, dry night in Paper Mill Caves before heading off again at sunrise towards Orange.

Days End

Tom had walked to Wayo and then been lucky to pick up a ride with a passing car. The driver was a strange, tin foil hat-wearing person on their way to camp out in the Blue Mountains until the pandemic was over. They explained that with no 5G towers inside the national park, that Covid-19 would never reach there. Parting ways with the driver in Trunkey Creek, Tom found an abandoned house and set up his swag for the night.

After a well-deserved sleep-in, Tom headed to the Black Stump hotel for a hearty country breakfast. Then, having eaten a double serve of baked beans he decided to walk for the first hour or two before trying to hitch a lift again.   Once beyond the black stump he passed a bushwalker on their way to the Black stump, after that, the only company he had was the crows flying overhead and following him down the road.

On to Part two

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Tromso Airport

Our flight was leaving around 1 pm. So, we organised a big cab to take all five of us plus luggage and headed to the airport.  Arriving at the departure door, we were greeted by the view of the mountains around the airport, snow-capped peaks, fluffy clouds, and blue skies. Everyone grabbed their cameras and started firing off shots. 

Happy at finally getting some pics that didn’t involve rain, we entered the terminal, checked our bags through to London, went through security, grabbed some lunch, and chilled till the first leg of our flight.  Tromso to Oslo is just on 2 hrs. Then we had a two-hour stopover in Oslo before we were back in the air and heading for London. Followed by another two-hour flight.  We were treated to a gorgeous sunset as we approached London and landed in the city’s twinkling lights.

London

I would have to say that Heathrow is the worst airport we dealt with on this trip.  It took about 90 mins to get to the top of the queue to get our passports stamped at immigration control  – a couple of big planes landed, and only two windows open processing people!  We had hotel transfers booked, and the poor man was waiting for us forever.  It was great to step out of immigration and be met by a driver who took our bags and took care of us. 

For the next four nights, our’ home’ was the Glenlyn Hotel in Finchley, about 30 mins out of London by underground – but nice.  Comfy, clean rooms with a lovely buffet breakfast included.  The only drawback, and shock as we didn’t know till we arrived) was there was NO lift!  Getting our large suitcases up two flights of narrow, steep, twisting stairs nearly killed us all the first night.

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Tromso

Tromso may be ‘easy’ to get to, but it’s a long way from Australia.  We left Melbourne Airport at 10.30 pm on a Thursday night flying 14.5 hrs to Doha with Qatar airlines. In Doha, we had a two-hour stopover before getting back in the air for another 6.5 hrs to Oslo, which finally put us in Norway. Stop over this time for six hours.

The final leg of two hours to Tromso has us arriving totally worn out 31 hrs after leaving Melbourne.  We were staying at the Viking Hotel in Tromso, a ‘budget’ hotel but still nice.  The rooms were warm and clean, the reception was super helpful and friendly. We were an easy walk 10min to the port, shops, and restaurants.

We were in Tromso for four nights, with plans to take a Fjord tour and two Northern Lights hunts.  The weather while we were there wasn’t great, overcast and showery, but not too cold.  In fact, we were expecting it to be a lot colder.  Waking up each morning, we had a view over the city rooftops to the mountains beyond. And every morning there was a little bit more snow in the mountains than the day before.

We attended a Tromso and the Northern Lights Photo Workshop on our first day with Wandering Owl. Not having photographed the lights before, we wanted to nail down the technique and settings.  The workshop was good.  Interesting and informative.  Following the workshop, we went out for dinner and then back to the hotel for an early night.  We were all still recovering from the long flight and had a Fjord tour planned for the next day.

Rain and Fjords

The weather the next morning was horrible, bordering on dreadful.  Very windy, cold, and raining.  Tour still went ahead, though, and we saw some fabulous countryside, including Kaa Fjord, where the German battleship Tirpitz was sunk on Nov 12, 1944, with a loss of approx 1000 german sailors.  The tiny rocky ‘island’ to the right of the image was nicknamed ‘corpse rock’ by the locals after they stacked the recovered bodies there while they worked to collect all the bodies for burial.  At low tide (according to the guides), you can see the outline of the Tirpitz resting in the waters below.

Leaving Kaa Fjord, we travelled on to Ersfjordbotn Fjord before stopping for lunch hot BBQ, hot dogs, marshmallows, and hot chocolate.  Totally delicious though I had never thought of barbequing a hot dog before.  A hardy lot, those Norwegians. We watched quite a lot of them out surfing in the rain while we ate our lunch. With water temp around 4°C, they were in full wetsuits, and even then, I reckon they’d have been cold.

During lunch, the rain got heavier and heavier. With concerns that the bridge back to Tromso could be closed, leaving us stranded, we headed back towards Tromo, stopping briefly off at a fishing village museum.  A lot of the buildings were original, having been relocated to the site from elsewhere

Northern Lights

That evening we went on our first Northern Lights hunt. While the lights didn’t last long – we did see them!  We photographed the lights while the guides made tea, coffee, hot chocolate with soup, and toasted marshmallows. 

It was around 2 am before we finally got dropped back at our hotel and fell into bed. 

Cable Cars and Snow

The next day was a ‘free’ day, so we wandered around town, visited the Arctic Cathedral, and went up the cable car. The cable car runs from Solliveien in Tromso up to the mountain ledge Storsteinen (421 m above sea level) in just four minutes.  It was bitterly cold and snowing up the mountain, but we had a ball getting snowed on and taking shots of the view over Tromso.

That night we were due to do a second Northern Lights hunt – but it was cancelled due to weather.  Unfortunately, as we were leaving the next day, we couldn’t reschedule it. And as is always the way when on holiday, the day we left to head to our next destination – the weather was perfect!

We flew out of Tromso around 1 pm bound for London (next post).  Beautiful city to fly out of with all the fjords below us.

Footnote: 

The people of Tromso are lovely – friendly and smiling.  Most speak English.  There are many pedestrian crossings in the city and all drivers are super aware of them and so mindful and considerate of pedestrians.  Many times we would be standing at the kerb, facing the road, nowhere near a pedestrian crossing… just working out where we were going to go… and cars would stop and wait for us to cross! 

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On the hunt

We slowly walked along the path, eyes swivelling back and forth, looking for fungi and checking the sides of tree trunks and deadwood lying on the ground. When we found one, we noticed that there would be others in the immediate area. Never saw a single one by itself.  We went off the path into the scrub in several areas where we spotted them. Some were just too hard to photograph either because they were inaccessible, way up a tree, or the tree was on such a slope that we needed to be mountain goats to position the tripods and shoot them.

Focus Stacking

I was shooting with the Olympus OMD EM1 Mark II, giving the new 60mm Macro its first real run, and trying out Focus Stacking for the first time on the Olympus, which worked fantastically!  I just love it; it creates eight images at different focal lengths, then merges them in-camera into a single image (jpeg) that’s (theoretically) sharp front to back.  Considering these were taken on a macro, which usually has a very narrow depth of field, it worked great.  I can’t wait to try it on the 12-40 for landscapes.  You end up with eight jpegs, 8 RAW and the blended jpeg. As I prefer to work with RAW files,  I deleted the jpegs when I downloaded them to the computer and then blended the RAW files in Photoshop.  

By around 1.30 pm – hungry and chilled to the bone, we headed back to the car, grabbed our picnic lunch and headed to one of the picnic tables. We quickly ate our lunch and then dived back to the warmth of the car for the trip home.  We had a fabulous morning, we all got a great crop of images, but all need warmer winter gear 😉

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Rain, Rain, go away

The weather forecast for the weekend was rain, but we were lucky with no rain except late at night when we were all in bed. So we could do a bit of travelling around during the day.

On Friday, we drove up to Powers Lookout.  Named after the bushranger who reputedly had a camp there in the 1860s, he used the high vantage point to watch for approaching troopers.   We usually just stop at the upper lookout and take a few shots. 

Powers Lookout

This time, feeling a bit stupid and adventurous, I decided to try the ‘other’ northern lookout.  The steps seemed ok at the start, heading downhill via steps cut into the rock, but ok.  Then they got steeper, massive, single steps where really two would have been better. The stone steps kept going down, then changed to steep metal stairs, shimmy through a gap,  past a big rock in the middle of the path (glad I hadn’t had lunch yet), then UP metal stairs to the northern lookout. (I should have stopped and taken photos of the track, but I was saving my energy to keep the lungs and legs working)

The northern lookout gave a different and better view, so the walk was worth it. But OMG I paid for it the next day with very sore legs. So we shot off quite a few photos, then started the trek back, with lots of stops along the way to catch our breath, admire the view. 

Chrismont Winery

From Powers Lookout, we headed to lunch and then Chrismont Winery.  It’s a beautiful building that won a design award and offers magnificent sweeping views of the valley from the tasting room.  I may have liberated a couple of bottles of their delicious Prosecco while I was there.

That evening we played with some light painting, new toys, trying out various ideas.

We did see some rain that night, but the following day was lovely and sunny again.  We enjoyed a slow start to the day and then headed up the road to Lake William Hovell.  Fabulous reflections and very quiet, we had the place to ourselves, apart from a few fishermen.

We had planned to do more light painting that evening, but the rains really came down not long after dinner, and we were futilely huddled under the awning waiting for them to pass, which they really didn’t.  The Olympus held up well in the rain, but I found that the wi-fi to my iPhone doesn’t work too well when I have cold, wet fingers. So mental note to self, make sure I have my wired remote in my bag!

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