Tag:camera gear

Starting Your Journey: Tips and Tricks for Beginner Bird Photographers

Bird photography is a challenging but rewarding genre of photography that involves capturing images of birds in their natural habitats. It can be an exciting and rewarding pastime. Conversely, it can be the most frustrating experience and akin to threading jelly through a needle. Where to find them, what time of day are they most active, which lens to use, and what settings to use? Of course, you can follow all the advice and still come home with no images. I have often struck this problem, mainly because they are too high in the trees or just not around.

Bird Photography lewins honeyeater
Lewins Honeyeater, Canungra, Qld.
Bird Hotspots

For me, the biggest problem with bird photography is finding the birds. Of course, birds are all around us in streets, gardens, and parks, but they are sparrows, crows, magpies etc. Twitchers (bird watchers) post their sightings all the time. But finding the robins, hawks, rosellas, parrots, and cockatoos (apart from the prolific Sulpher crested) can be a skill in itself. Not to mention finding them within the range limits of your lens.

The Cornell Lab of Ornithology runs a great website called eBird. On there, you can search for bird hotspots, submit your findings, or find where a particular species are. For your mobile, there is Merlin. Merlin also has free bird packs to download to your phone, giving bird information, calls, locations etc. It’s a great starting point.

Bird Photography regent bowerbird
Regent Bowerbird, Canungra, Qld.

Learning the bird’s behaviour is also a great help in predicting what it will do. It is equally important to know the time of day they are most active, what months they are in what area, etc. Behaviour-wise, for example, birds always fly off in the direction they face, and if they raise their tail and release faecal matter, they are about to take off.

red capped robin Bird Photography
Red-capped Robin by Kellye Wilson
Equipment

For bird photography, you must have a camera with a long lens. The longer, the better. On my Olympus micro-four-thirds, I have the Olympus 40-150mm with a 2x extender giving me 600mm. A 300mm lens will work ok (esp on micro four-thirds, where it translates to 600mm or a crop sensor, where it’s around 450mm). If you have a full-frame camera – you need something that’s at least 400mm, preferably up to 600mm. You can get away with less, but most of the time, it will require heavy cropping.

Eastern Yellow Robin, Canungra, Qld.
Heavily cropped and enlarged backup with Topaz Gigapixel

One way around that is using Topaz Gigapixel – it will make your cropped image up to 6x larger without losing quality. (they have a free 30-day trial too)

Camera modes

Firstly, shoot RAW. It gives you a higher-resolution image and more flexibility in editing, including the ability to change your white balance. Exposure compensation is also convenient to use when you are trying to balance shutter speed and light. You can adjust the exposure via the + to deliberately overexpose a bit if your subject is very dark. Consider putting the camera on silent mode so as not to startle the bird. Always use high-speed continuous and fire off short bursts of shots.

Rainbow Lorikeet Bird Photography
Rainbow Lorikeet, Plenty Gorge Park, Vic.
Camera Settings
Manual Mode

For perched birds, either nesting or on branches, go for ISO 100-200 in good light or Auto ISO on cloudy or low-light days. It helps to know how high an ISO your camera can handle before the image becomes noisy. You can then set the maximum ISO on your camera and use Auto ISO for birds. Select auto white balance and an F-stop of F4-5.6 to separate the bird from the background. Then, focus on the bird’s eye. For perched birds, go for a shutter speed of 1/500 to 1/1000

Bird Photography Pied Heron
Pied Heron, Port Douglas Wildlife Habitat, Qld

For birds in flight – you need a much faster shutter speed and continuous-servo autofocus (CAF). The shutter speed will also depend on how fast the bird flies. Birds like pelicans lumber along and are easy to catch in flight; smaller birds such as swallows, terns or the peregrine falcon are swift flyers. For these birds, you need a superfast shutter speed.

  1. Use a fast lens with a long focal length: A fast lens with a long focal length, such as a 70-300mm or a 100-400mm, will allow you to capture birds in motion from a distance.
  2. Choose a fast shutter speed: Start with a shutter speed of at least 1/2000th of a second or faster to freeze the motion of the birds in flight.
  3. Use continuous autofocus mode: Switch to continuous autofocus mode to ensure that the camera is continuously tracking the bird as it moves.
  4. Track the bird’s movement: Anticipate the bird’s movement and follow it with the camera, keeping the bird in the centre of the frame.
  5. Experiment with burst mode: Use burst mode to capture a series of images in quick succession, increasing your chances of capturing a sharp, in-focus shot.
  6. Pay attention to the background: Make sure the background is simple and not distracting, as it will draw the viewer’s eye away from the bird.
  7. Be patient and persistent: Birds in flight can be elusive and difficult to capture, so be patient and persistent in your pursuit of great bird flight images.
Pair of Kookaburras
Pair of Kookaburras
Shutter Priority Mode

Shutter priority mode (also known as “Tv” mode) is a useful setting for bird photography as it allows you to control the shutter speed while the camera automatically sets the aperture to achieve the proper exposure. This mode is particularly helpful in capturing fast-moving birds, as you can set a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

  1. Choose a fast shutter speed: Start with a shutter speed of at least 1/1000th of a second or faster. A fast shutter speed will help freeze the motion of the bird and reduce the risk of camera shake.
  2. Use a tripod or bean bag for stability: Since you will be using a fast shutter speed, it’s important to have a stable platform to minimize camera shake and improve image quality.
  3. Experiment with different shutter speeds: Try different shutter speeds to see the effect on the final image. Slower shutter speeds can create a sense of motion, while faster shutter speeds will freeze the motion.
  4. Watch the aperture: The camera will automatically adjust the aperture to achieve the proper exposure, but keep an eye on the aperture value and adjust the ISO if necessary.
  5. Use burst mode: using burst mode to capture a series of photos in quick succession, increases your chances of getting a sharp shot.
  6. Be mindful of the lighting conditions: Keep in mind that you may need to adjust the shutter speed or ISO based on the lighting conditions. In low light, you may need to use a slower shutter speed or increase the ISO.

By using shutter priority mode and following these tips, you can capture sharp, dynamic bird images that show the beauty and grace of these creatures in motion.

Rainbow Bee-Eater
Rainbow Bee-Eater
Focus Points

Finding the subject in the frame is often tricky when using a long zoom lens. Spot metering and a centre focus point is usually the most sensitive and accurate focus point, making it a good choice for bird photography. However, experiment and try different focus points to see which one works best for your camera and the situation. I always use back-button focus: as it allows me to separate the focus and exposure functions of the camera. This will allow you to focus on the bird and lock the focus, allowing you to recompose the shot without the camera refocusing. Another point to remember – keep the bird’s eye in focus: When photographing birds, it’s important to keep the bird’s eye in focus as this is the most critical part of the bird to keep sharp.

Approaching birds

Research your subject: Learn about the birds you want to photograph, including their behaviour, habitat, and preferred food sources. This will help you anticipate their movements and get the shots you want. Getting close enough to get the shot is one of the most challenging parts of bird photography. Some birds will allow you to get quite close. Others are skittish and maintain a considerable distance (hello, long lens).

Great white egret, Bird Photography
Great White Egret, Port Douglas Wildlife Habitat, Qld

Try to blend in with your surroundings by wearing neutral-coloured clothing and using a camouflage cloth for your gear. Do not wear white, red or bright clothing; you need to blend into the surroundings. I have seen some very dedicated photographers wearing full camo clothing, including camo coverings on their cameras and lenses. That’s a bit extreme for me, so I dress in blues or khaki/tans. Avoid feeding birds or using bait to lure them, as this can lead to unnatural behaviour and negatively impact the birds’ health.

Sulphur Crested Cockatoo

Walk quietly without chatter to minimise disturbance. If you spot a bird, walk slowly towards it. Try not to approach it when the bird is watching you, and walk forward slowly at a zig-zag angle. When you raise the camera to take a shot, do it slowly—no sudden movements. If possible, let the birds come to you. If you learn their behaviour and habitat, you can take a chair, bottle of water or thermos and settle down and wait for them. Then they aren’t taking off and fleeing when you suddenly appear on the scene.

Practice

Start with the ducks and magpies if you are a beginner at bird photography. Take a bag of seeds for the ducks (never feed them bread). Ducks and Pelicans are usually acclimated to human interaction. On one lake, I visited all the ducks, geese and swans swarmed toward any newcomer arriving as they were used to people feeding them. Photographing them will give you experience in getting the settings and compositions right. Next, look for walkthrough aviaries; you are guaranteed to get shots there. In Melbourne, both Melbourne Zoo and Serendip Sanctuary have walkthrough aviaries. Healesville Zoo has a daily bird of prey show.

Bird Photography Blue and Yellow Macaw
Blue and Yellow Macaw, Birdworld, Kuranda, Qld.
Ten top tips
  1. Use a fast lens with a long focal length to capture birds in motion.
  2. Use a tripod or bean bag for stability.
  3. Keep a fast shutter speed to freeze motion and avoid camera shake.
  4. Use a high ISO to achieve faster shutter speeds in low light.
  5. Pre-focus on a specific spot where you expect the bird to fly or perch.
  6. Make use of continuous autofocus mode to track moving birds.
  7. Experiment with different perspectives, such as shooting from above or below the bird.
  8. Use natural light or flash to create proper exposure and add depth to your photos.
  9. Pay attention to the background to avoid distracting elements or unwanted clutter.
  10. Patience and persistence are key, as birds can be elusive and take time to observe and capture.
One last bit of advice

Get up early or stay out late: The best light for bird photography is often found in the early morning or late afternoon. Make a point to learn from the experts, look for bird photography workshops or classes, or study the work of professional bird photographers. YouTube holds a wealth of information and tutorials on bird photography.

The Perfect Camera Bag

Like every other photographer I know, I have a ‘silent addiction’ to camera bags. All of us in CBA (camera bags anonymous) have several bags, gathering dust accumulated over the years in the cupboard. This is while we continue to research and buy new bags searching for the holy grail. The perfect one size fits all camera bag.

Peak Design Everyday Backpack

To this end, I bought the Peak Design Everyday Backpack, a bag I had long coveted, thinking it would be perfect. And found, as did the crusaders in the search for the holy grail, or Captain Ahab in his pursuit of the white whale – it’s futile. No one bag will ever be suitable for every situation.

perfect camera bag hunt

I have had no-name camera backpacks, sling bags, and messenger bags. Tried Lowepro backpacks and slings and tote bags with added padded camera inserts. I bought a Lowepro Flipside Trek BP 350 for a trip to Europe. I even purchased the Lowepro rolling suitcase at one time, thinking of all the times I lugged a heavy bag around an airport. Then fully loaded, the bag was too heavy to pass carry-on! All in the hunt for the one bag that would carry my gear and not break my back.

woman with camera
Lowepro Tahoe

When I sold my Canon gear and went mirrorless, I purchased a Lowepro Tahoe. It worked great. That was until I accumulated a few more lenses. Not one bag I have had worked as an ‘every time I leave the house bag. And neither does the Peak Design Everyday Backpack.

That being said, the only two I now own are the Lowepro Tahoe and the Peak Design 30L Everyday Backpack, and I am pleased with both. However, through trial and error and many regretted purchases, I have found that you can’t get away with one bag. You need two. Why? Do you ask?

Why two bags?

It depends on where I am going and how much gear I need/want to take. I have found I need a day bag and a weekend/trip bag. My day bag is when I am just heading out for an afternoon or day trip. For those times, I don’t want to take everything. The weekend bag is when I want to take everything with me. The walking weight of the bag on a long hike doesn’t factor in for me. Due to (a) I don’t do long hikes and (b) my mirrorless system isn’t too heavy.

My Day Bag
lowepro tahoe

The Lowepro Tahoe BP150 is my day bag. The Tahoe is my go-to if I am heading out for the day to chase waterfalls, autumn leaves, or wildlife (at the zoo). It’s light, comfortable on the back and holds my camera, a spare battery, a cleaning kit, and a second l ns. I can even remove one divider and tuck in some lunch.

perfect camera bag lowepro tahoe

I can tuck a water bottle in one side pocket and my tripod through the other. It also takes my keys in a secure clip and phone. It does take a tablet, but as a day bag, I don’t take that with me – it’s an excellent sleeve for extra stuff, though – when fungi hunting the other weekend, I popped a small reflector folded into its cover in here. You can also pop some protein bars in there to keep you going.

It’s a great day bag and is perfect for when I only need the camera, two lenses and lunch.

My Weekend/Trip Bag
the perfect bag - peak design everyday backpack

The Peak Design Everyday Backpack gets packed when heading off for a weekend or week away. At 30L, it is still carry-on approved for flights. I have even placed it under the seat for short flights. It also holds an impressive amount o gear. My Olympus E-M1 Mark II with 12-100 attached, the 40-150 zoom, plus 7-14 wide and 60mm macro, all fit in the inside dividers nicely. One internal side pocket holds four batteries, pens, and cables. The other internal side pocket takes all my filters. The outside pockets fit a water bottle in one, and I can strap the tripod to the other side.

peak design every day backpack

A zip in the top has a designated floating laptop section and an iPad section. Floating as the laptop/iPad isn’t sited at the bottom of the insert when you put the bag on the floor. Thus they have a buffer from hitting the floor. The fabric is also totally waterproof with waterproof zips, so no rain cover is required.

the perfect camera bag peak design everyday back pack
The little details

I love the magnetic latch to access the top quickly, and like that, there are no cumbersome waist straps, but there are lots of little hidden straps to attach things to… like your jacket if you take it off. It has a sternum strap that tucks invisibly away when not in use. It’s a clean ‘classy’ looking bag and doesn’t scream ‘camera bag’. I also love that there are three leather handles. This makes it easy to grab the bag from whatever side is facing forward (excellent in an overhead locker)

While it’s a sturdy, well-made, and very roomy bag, it’s also one of the more expensive bags on the market. However, IMHO is worth every cent, and despite the price tag, it is not one of my regretted purchases.

Goodbye Canon – It’s Over Between Us

Sorry Canon, it was good while it lasted, but it’s over. I have a new love. The Olympus OM -D-E MI Mark II has stolen my heart. And made travel fun again.

Canon 450D
My First Canon

Back in 2012, I bought my first DSLR. A Canon 450D with a twin lens kit. I was in heaven.

I had no idea how to use a camera with interchangeable lenses, having never owned one before, but I took an online course to master the concept of F stops, ISO and aperture and went forth into the world. I LOVED the 450D. Pics were of excellent quality and easy to learn. Emboldened by what I had learnt, two years later, I upgraded to the Canon 7D. It was heavier and larger but had higher frames per second (FPS) for wildlife, my favourite subject alongside landscapes. Wanting to shoot wildlife better, I purchased the Sigma 150-600. You can see where this is going. My kit was getting heavier.

Canon 6D

Fast forward to 2016, and I now also had the Canon 6D, with 24-105 L F.4, 100-400 L F4.5-5.6 and a Canon 16-35 F2.8, plus filters and a host of spare batteries. Flying with the gear was a nightmare. With a 7kg carry-on allowance,  I couldn’t take it all on board and didn’t want to trust it to the checked luggage. So it became a strategic game of wearing a coat and filling the pockets. Then walk through like the coat didn’t weigh 4-5 kg on its own.

Crunch time came when I took a trip to Qld. We were planning on shooting birds in Lamington National Park, so the 100-400 had to come along, as did the wide angle as we were going to be doing landscapes. And, of course, the 24-105 for my walkaround lens. Hoping to find waterfalls, I packed the filters. The entire bag weighed around 10kg. This time I had no choice but to trust the 100-400 to the checked luggage. It was well ensconced in bubble wrap, placed in the centre of the suitcase with clothes all around it for padding. Fortunately, it made the trip there and back with no damage. But, realising this wasn’t sustainable, I started researching the move to mirrorless.

Mirrorless Options

Sony was the first I looked at, as a few friends have them and seem to like them. However, the battery life wasn’t impressive. I was not too fond of the shape and ergonomics of the Sony. The Sony was quite slim and square and call me shallow, but I wanted a camera that still looked like a DSLR. While I could have used the Canon lenses with the Sony via an adapter, I would still have canon lenses’ weight. If I was going to change over,  I decided I would totally change over and use native lenses. Otherwise, there was no real weight saving. 

Olympus

Then I came across the new Olympus M -D-E MI Mark II. It was a nice weight at 574g, had a good grip, was splash-proof, dustproof and freeze-proof. Further investigations found it has excellent five-axis stabilisation, a touch screen, 121-point cross-type phase-detection AF, a minimum burst rate of 15fps, battery life of around 400 shots, and an articulated back LED screen. Sound too good to be true? NO. 

Olympus-OM-D-E-M1-Mark-II

I was still researching by Christmas and decided to bite the bullet and get it. It has proved to be one of my better decisions in life. I love, love, love the Olympus. It’s got a solid metal casing, plus the Lenses feel solid and are all metal with no plastic bits. In the field, it’s light and comfortable to hold. I went for the Pro lenses, which are all F2.8 because they are fast and accurate. Image quality is fabulous. Yes, it’s a micro four-thirds, so the sensor is smaller than the crop of full-frame sensors. But I don’t buy into the whole ‘must have a full-frame to get good pics’. 

Olympus Zuiko 12-40 F2.8 Pro
Olympus Zuiko 40-150 F2.8 Pro
Olympus Lenses

The 12-40 F2.8 Pro lives on the camera – and for wildlife, I have the 40-150 Pro 2 .8. You double the focal distance on the micro four-thirds, which equals 24-80 and 80-300 on a full-frame. I also purchased the teleconverter for the 40-150, and when that’s onboard, the 40-150 becomes a 112 -420mm. The 7-14 F2.8 Pro is on my wish list, and I’ll be closely looking at the EOFY sales this year.

Olympus Zuiko Pro 7-14 F2.8

According to the reviews I read, the menu on the Olympus was ‘overly complicated, but I didn’t find it too much of an issue. Yes, it’s VERY customisable – there are so many options. Most I ignore and will worry about when I need to know. Maybe if your first camera is the Olympus, it would be overwhelming, but if you are moving from a DSLR, you already have a working knowledge, and it shouldn’t be too daunting. An excellent video by Tony Northrup helped fill in the blanks and get it set up for me.

Problem Solved

Canon makes fabulous lenses, no argument there. And I was happy with the gear and the shots, but the weight became a deal-breaker.   My kit now weighs around 2.5kg, and the 7-14 will add 534g, so in total, by the time I add batteries, filters, etc., the bag will be max 3.5kg …  a loss of  6.5 kg of camera weight. So flying with carry on should no longer be an issue. My images not only have no drop in quality going from crop to micro four-thirds, but I think they are better (the lenses are a standout). My shoulders and back sooo thank me also. 

Taken with Canon 6D and 100mm F2.8 Macro
P2221815-1
Canon 7D MII, 100-400 F4.5-5.6
P2221681-1

Photography Gear and Travelling ‘Light’

Photography gear and travelling light?? Yes, it sounds like a dream.. it is possible… kind of, sort of, depending….. confused? Bear with me.

Travelling in 2008

Back in 2008, travelling, with ‘gear’ for me, was a small digital Panasonic Lumix that just popped into my handbag.  My ‘flight’ luggage was a carry-on compatible suitcase with clothes.  I prided myself on always travelling light.

Travel Time
Two Years Later

Then in 2010, I bought a Canon 450D with a twin lens kit, and everything changed.  The camera and two lenses went into a backpack, along with filters, spare batteries, and battery chargers.  This became my carry-on.  Clothing now went in a medium suitcase as it had to also fit the length of the tripod in, and it had to be checked in due to size and the fact that my camera gear was now my carry-on.  This still worked reasonably well until 2012. Up until then, coming in under the 7kg limit for carry-on wasn’t a big issue. Camera gear weighed about 5kg, and I hadn’t started including a laptop as part of my gear,  so I had enough left over for an iPad, phone, handbag, etc. (yes, if you travel budget airlines, they do weigh the handbag as well if the plane is full).

Travelling in 2012

In 2012 I upgraded to a Canon 7D M1 with a 24-70 lens. Travelling with gear became a major headache of not exceeding the limit.  The Canon 450D weighed 475g without lenses.  The Canon 7D M1 weighed 1.467g body only, and the 24-70 lens was 950g.  Almost a full kg heavier just on the body alone! Add the zoom lens, sometimes the macro. The 7kg carry on limit has now become a significant issue.  There was no way I could meet it with what I wanted to take, a camera, plus two lenses (70-300 and 24-70) plus filters, batteries, battery charger, and remote. Add the weight of the actual bag. It became a ‘smuggling’ mission to get on board. 

Staying Under Cabin Limit

I always wore clothes with heaps of pockets that were full! So with the camera’s weight around the neck a significant issue, I bought a Peak Design Slide Strap. Excellent strap and is so much more comfortable than the horrible neck straps that come branded with the cameras. (For the huge amount of money good cameras cost, you think they would be able to provide you with a decent neck strap, no, it seems too much to expect).

Canon DSLR
Fast Forward to 2016

In 2016, I bought into the full-frame is better for the low-light school of thought. Consequently, I moved from the 7DM1 to Canon 6D Mark1 with 24-105L.  Again a drop in weight down to 770g, with the 24-105L at 670g, I was saving 697g on the camera body – not earth-shattering, but a bit better. 

It’s 2016, and I again upgraded to the Canon 7D MII with 24-105. The camera body was 1,388g – again. heavier (what was I thinking?), then I added the Canon 100-400 M1 with a weight of 1.365g.  Add the fact I now took a laptop to download my images, plus a portable hard drive to back them up to, it was impossible to travel with gear, plus a laptop, iPad, etc. and come in under the 7kg carry-on allowance. Coming home on a flight from NZ once, I saw them weighing handbags, so we quickly left the queue, went to the toilets, and the iPad went down the front of my pants, the phone went into the back pocket, batteries came out of carry on and went into yet more pockets….aghhh! 

2017 and something’s got to give

In 2017 on a trip to Qld, I risked putting the 100-400L into the checked luggage.. well cuddled in bubble wrap, inside a padded bag, in the middle of the suitcase, surrounded by clothes.    Opening that suitcase on arrival was nerve-wracking.. would I find smashed glass?  Thankfully it arrived there and back ok, but it wasn’t something I wanted to repeat.  I looked into Pelican cases that could be checked in, and the gear was safe.. but I didn’t like letting it out of my sight, so that thought was discarded.

The Decision is Made

Crunch time came on another trip to Qld.  Walking around Seaworld all day with the 7D M2 plus the big 100-400L, we had 2.5kg around over the shoulder, plus handbags, in 35C heat, and we were hot, grumpy and exhausted.  By the end of the day, that camera and lens over the shoulder seemed to weigh comparable to a cannonball.  We went back to our hotel, showered, sat on the balcony with a chilled bottle of wine.. and planned our next ‘system’.  Cause we were going home and selling those cannons,  Canons!

Canon with L series white lens
Mirrorless Options

I looked at Sony, as I could use my current lenses, but the weight saving using the adapter to take the canon lens.. and then the lens.. was so negligible to not be worth it.  It seemed like I was going to change over; it made more sense to do it completely,  complete with the new camera body and native lenses.  I also wanted a camera that still looked like an SLR with a good grip.  Call me shallow, but if I was paying a couple of thousand for a camera, I didn’t want it looking like a simple point-and-shoot.  I also looked at Panasonic and the Fuji (and this was before their latest releases), but Olympus kept coming up with better specs and looked the way to go.

Sony
Olympus

Looking at the Olympus OM-D E-M1 MarkII, I liked the ergonomics; the 5-way stabilisation, 18 plus fps, was weather-sealed and freeze-proof (and with a trip to Norway coming up, a significant factor).  The battery life was also better than the sony, and the pro lenses to go with it are of fantastic quality. It has a fully transitional back LED, built-in WiFi, Automatic focus stacking, auto HDR, love the live comp for night shooting, plus loads of other features… and at only 530g, it was a winner.  The lenses are also light, and I added the 12-40 F2.8 Pro, 80-140 F2.8 pro with 1.4 converters, 7-14 F2.8 Pro, and the 60mm F2.8  Macro.  Being a micro four-thirds system, you double the focal length to equal the full frame.. so I have basically from 14mm to 392mm (when I add the converter to the 80-140)

Olympus OM-D E-M1 MarkII

Any mirrorless will save you loads of weight. But, of course, the system you choose will depend on your shooting style.  For myself, I do landscapes and wildlife, so Olympus is perfect for me.  Sony mirrorless is probably the way to go if you are sold on full-frame.  But I’m not.  My image quality going from full-frame (Canon 6D) to crop (Canon 7D MI and MII) to Mirrorless Micro four-thirds (Olympus OM-D E-M1 MarkII), in my opinion, has not degraded at all. Of course, I expect it not to perform as well at ISO above 3200, but I never shoot that high anyway, so it’s a non-issue, and I prefer a long exposure over a high ISO.

The final analysis

My crop-sensor kit weight was around 10kg .. the micro four-thirds is just 5kg. So adding the weight of the bag and the laptop, I can now make the 7kg carry-on.  So yes, it is possible to travel pack photography gear and travelling ‘Light’. But not if you use a high-end crop sensor or full-frame DSLR.  And my clothing still goes in checked luggage.

© Bevlea Ross