Tag:flat lay
Still life photography is a genre of photography that involves capturing images of inanimate (still) objects, typically arranged in a pleasing composition. The objects could be everyday items such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, and household items. Unusual things like old books, vintage cameras, or antique furniture also work well. The aim is to create an aesthetically pleasing image that draws the viewer’s eye and holds their attention. Photographers often use lighting, composition, and depth of field to create a sense of mood or emotion in their images.
History
Still life painting and photography have been around for centuries, with roots dating back to ancient Greece and Rome. However, the genre began to take shape during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance in Europe. During the Middle Ages, still life paintings were primarily used for religious purposes. These depicted objects, such as fruits, flowers, and vessels, representing the Eucharist or other religious themes. In the 16th century, still life painting emerged as a separate genre, with artists creating compositions of everyday objects such as food, flowers, and household items.

During the 17th century, still life painting reached new heights of popularity, with artists creating highly detailed and realistic compositions of food, flowers, and household items. This period is often considered the golden age of still life painting, with artists such as Pieter Claesz, Willem Kalf, and Rachel Ruysch becoming well-known for their still life compositions.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, still life painting began to evolve, with artists experimenting with new styles and techniques. For example, impressionist artists such as Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir created still life paintings that focused on capturing the essence of light and colour. In contrast, modernist artists such as Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque experimented with abstract forms and shapes.
In the 20th century, still life photography emerged as a popular genre. Photographers such as Edward Weston, Imogen Cunningham, and Irving Penn created stunning compositions of everyday objects. Today, still life photography continues to be a popular and vibrant genre.
Subjects
A wide variety of subjects can make for interesting still life photography. Some examples are:
- Flowers and plants: Fresh or dried flowers, potted plants, succulents, and other botanicals can make beautiful and visually appealing compositions.
- Food and drink: Fresh fruits and vegetables, baked goods, wine bottles, and coffee mugs. These and other culinary items can be arranged artistically to create mouth-watering images.
- Household items: Antique cameras, old books, vintage telephones, and other household items arranged creatively to create visually intriguing still life images.
- Personal items: Sentimental objects such as jewellery, souvenirs, and keepsakes. These items capture their sentimental value and tell a story.
- Natural objects: Rocks, shells, feathers, bird nests, seed pods. All create a sense of calmness and serenity.
Flowers in Still Life

Vases and containers: Choose vases and containers that complement the colours and shapes of the flowers you are shooting. You can use clear glass vases to create a minimalist look. Alternatively, choose more colourful or patterned containers to add visual interest.
Textiles: Consider using fabrics or textiles as a backdrop for the flowers. You can choose a simple white or black background or go for something more colourful or patterned to create a more dynamic composition.
Natural props, such as branches, leaves, or rocks, can add context and make the flowers look more natural. You can also add water droplets to the flowers to create a more organic look.
Lighting props: Using lighting props such as reflectors or diffusers can help control the lighting and create the desired mood for your shot. You can use these props to create soft, diffused lighting or to add dramatic shadows to the flowers.
Other decorative props: Consider using props such as candles, books, or decorative objects to enhance the overall composition and add visual interest.
Remember, the key is to use props that enhance the flowers and create a visually appealing composition. Keep the focus on the flowers while using props to add context and interest to the shot.
Food in Still Life

Plates and bowls: Choose plates and bowls that complement the colours and textures of the food you are shooting. You can use white or neutral-coloured dishes to make the food stand out or use more colourful and patterned plates to add visual interest.
Utensils: Including utensils such as forks, spoons, and knives in the shot can create a sense of context and a more natural look. You can also use props such as cutting boards, rolling pins, or whisks to enhance the composition.
Linens and textiles: Tablecloths, napkins, and other textiles can add texture and visual interest to the shot. Choose fabrics that complement the colours and textures of the food. Alternatively, go for a more contrasting look for added drama.
Backgrounds: Consider using backgrounds that enhance the colours and textures of the food, such as wooden boards, marble countertops, or colourful tiles. You can also use textured paper or fabric as a backdrop to create a more cohesive composition. One background set I bought came from Amazon, and I love it. You get two double-sided foam core boards with brackets to stand them up. One panel has a different concrete look on either side, and the other has two different woodgrains.
Garnishes: Adding herbs, spices, or fresh fruit can add visual interest to the shot and make the food look more appetising.
Natural Objects in Still Life

Natural backgrounds: Consider using natural settings such as fields, forests, or beaches as a backdrop for the objects. You can also use raw materials such as rocks, sand, or moss to create a more textured and interesting background.
Other natural objects: Consider using flowers, leaves, or branches to create a more natural and interesting composition. You don’t have to have fresh flowers all the time. Good quality silk plants work, too (like the ivy in the blue jug above). You can also use water droplets, dew, or frost to add texture and interest to the objects.
Background props: Consider using other objects or props to create a background or context for your shooting objects. For example, if you are shooting a bird’s nest, you could use feathers or twigs as a background.
Other decorative props: Consider using candles, books, or other natural objects. These enhance the overall composition and add visual interest.

Making your own backgrounds
There are many different ways to make your backgrounds for still life photography. This depends on the look and feel that you want to achieve. Consider the colours of your objects. The background should help make them stand out. I find working with a solid colour is best.
Use fabric or paper backdrops: You can easily create backdrops using fabrics or papers with different textures and colours. For example, you could use a plain white sheet as a backdrop for a minimalist look. Conversely, a colourful piece of fabric adds visual interest to the shot. You can also use patterned or textured papers, such as scrapbook paper, to create a unique look. For example, woodgrain wallpaper will give the look of a timber tabletop without storing multiple tables.

Create your textured backgrounds: Using wood planks, textured wallpaper, or even concrete slabs, you can create textured backgrounds. Self-adhesive tiles from eBay make great backgrounds; attach them to your chosen boards. I previously did a post on DYI backgrounds here. Foam core board, MDF and Plywood all work great as a base. Then, paint or cover them with your desired texture or colour to create a backdrop that fits your vision.
Where to source your props

My two primary resources are around my own home or op shops. The kitchen cupboards yield a feast of plates, bowls, and jugs: my linen cupboard – tablecloths, tea towels, and even white sheets for backdrops. I look for old silver or wooden spoons, jugs, herb jars, trays, crockery, vases and glassware in op shops. One of my favourite objects is an old rusted kitchen scale I picked up on eBay relatively cheaply.

still life photography scene ideas
- Food: Arrange fruits, vegetables, and other food items and capture their textures, colours, and shapes. Experiment with lighting, shadows, and backgrounds to create a dramatic effect.
- Flowers: Choose a beautiful bouquet and capture them from different angles, emphasising their shapes, colours, and textures. You can also play with depth of field, blurring the background and adding props such as vases, ribbons, or books.
- Objects: Select a collection of vintage or everyday objects, such as books, glasses, keys, or toys. Use a plain or textured background, and experiment with angles, lighting, and shadows.
- Art supplies: Gather pencils, paintbrushes, paints, and other art supplies and create a creative scene. Try adding some blank paper or canvas to stage the scene, emphasising the idea of creativity and inspiration.
- Musical instruments: If you can access them, try capturing their textures, shapes, and colours. Experiment with lighting, shadows, and reflections, emphasising the idea of rhythm and harmony.
- Household objects: Use everyday household objects such as glasses, mugs, plates, or utensils. Experiment with angles, lighting, and reflections, and add some complementary items such as flowers or fruits.
- Natural elements: Capture the beauty of natural elements such as rocks, shells, leaves, or branches. Use close-up shots, emphasising the textures, colours, and shapes.
- Vintage items: If you can access vintage items such as cameras, typewriters, or telephones, use them to capture their beauty and nostalgia. Use a plain or textured background, and experiment with angles, lighting, and shadows.

Camera Settings
The camera settings for still life photography vary depending on your equipment and lighting conditions. However, here are some general settings that can work well for still life photography:
Aperture: Use a smaller aperture (higher f-number) to create a wider depth of field to keep the entire subject in focus. This is especially important when photographing multiple objects in a single frame.
ISO: Use the lowest ISO possible to reduce noise and maintain image quality. This can help create a sharper image and minimise graininess.
Shutter speed: Use a tripod and a slower shutter speed. This allows more light into the camera and captures more detail in the still life. This is especially important when shooting in low-light conditions.
White balance: Adjust your white balance to ensure that the colours in your image are accurate and natural. You can do this manually or use a white balance preset based on the lighting conditions.
Focus: Use manual or autofocus to ensure the subject is sharp and focused. Pay attention to the depth of field and adjust your focus point accordingly.
Remember, these settings are just a starting point. You may still need to adjust them depending on the lighting and subject you are working with. Experiment with different settings and take test shots to find the best combination for your still life photography.

A Final word
Still life photography is a fascinating and versatile genre that offers photographers endless possibilities for creativity and expression. Whether capturing everyday objects or carefully composed arrangements, still life photography invites us to look at the world around us in a new way and appreciate the beauty in the mundane.
With the correct technique and a keen eye for detail, anyone can create striking and memorable still life images that capture the essence of their subject matter. Whether you’re a professional photographer or an enthusiastic hobbyist, still life photography is a rewarding and engaging pursuit that offers endless opportunities for growth and discovery.
DIY backgrounds for still life are easy and fun to do. Recently I was thinking about doing some flat lay and still life photography. But instead of photography, I did some DIY backgrounds for still life photography. You can use a lot of stuff you have to hand – the floor, a table, but if you like variety and versatility, you will want more. Fortunately, they are easy to make at home, with minimal supplies, and without spending loads of money. I have listed several options for backgrounds and a step by step at the end to make your own MDF painted board.
Wallpaper
OK, you can’t make wallpaper at home, but it makes a great background, and you can buy them online. Google ‘wallpaper’, and check out eBay as well. If you have friends into still life, product, or food photography, you can go shares on a roll. eBay sellers also have sample pieces sized around 50cm x50cm for about $5 each. Be careful and avoid the self-adhesive ones, as most have a sheen to them, reflecting in your images.

I love the ones that look like wooden panels (on eBay, search for ‘wood optic wallpaper’). It will look like a real table through the camera without the cost or problem of having multiple tables. It’s not as durable as the boards – but it’s economical enough that I don’t feel guilty when I eventually throw it out. I have used one piece over and over. It’s been sprayed with glycerine, wiped down, splashed with coffee and water, and it’s still going strong.

MDF Boards
MDF makes great DYI backgrounds. They are sturdy and can be painted in whatever colour takes your fancy. Then, when you have used and abused it to the point it’s no longer photogenic, you can repaint it for a new look.

Tongue and Groove Flooring
I purchased one piece of tongue and groove 2400mm long and cut it into four equal parts of 60mm. One side has a groove down the centre to give it a narrower board look for wainscoting – I planned to do this side black and the other side in a limewash. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay attention and noticed when I had the first coat on that, I had one piece back to front, and there was no centre groove.
So, I ended up doing both sides black – one side has three coats, and one side has two for different depths of black. I used the ‘Black Japan’ stain and applied using a cloth. The Black japan gives a nice flat, non-reflective colour but still shows the timber grain through it. Although the four pieces are still separate, I didn’t bond them together as they are easier to pack up and lock back together when I want to use them.

Perspex
Black perspex is excellent if you want a reflective base. It gives a brilliant reflection when used on still life or product photography. We even used them on a reptile shoot once. White perspex will still give you a slight reflection and works well for a minimal look. As the white one was scratched through poor storage, I added a 3D self-adhesive brick tile from eBay ($10) and put that on the back. (they are soft and scratch easily, when not in use, it’s best to put a towel or bubble wrap over them). You can also get imitation stone or subway tiles. I bought both black and white perspex 60×120 and bent them across the centre, so I have an L shape. This gives me a self-standing, background, and base in one. I can also clamp different wallpapers or fabric to the back to provide a different look.



Foam Core Board
White Foam core board does double duty. You can use it as a backdrop or a reflector. The black is also handy – it’s light, stores away well and can be wiped clean quite easily.
Stretched Canvas
Stretched Canvas is lighter than the MDF and can be painted the same. They also have a lovely linen look to them. However, dollar for dollar, they are about double the price of MDF.
Plywood
Thin sheets of plywood can be cut down and stained in different wood colours to give you the looks of other timbers. For example, a 1200 x 600 x 12mm red oak sheet will set you back at about $30. but this will give you two 600×600 boards.. .or you can cut smaller to put on your backdrops, simulating different chopping boards. You will need to avoid shooting the side of the board, though, as you’ll be able to see the plywood layers.
Paint your own MDF Board
The beauty of the MDF boards is they are double-sided, and you can do each side a different colour giving you four backgrounds for your one sheet of MDF. For example, I did one side a med grey and the other side matt black.
Supplies
Apart from the cling wrap, everything came from Bunnings.
- Selleys 420g Liquid Nails Fast Grab – $6.39
- Caulking Gun – $4.35
- Sheet of MDF 6mm x 1200 x 600 – $10.50
- Paint – I used Dulux theatre black 1L $36.90 and Dulux White 250ml sample pot $7.98
- Mini paint roller – I bought the mini paint partner 10pc kit for $8.45 but you can get two foam rollers for $4.35.
- cling wrap
- 75mm plastic paint scraper $1.29
- sanding block $1.80
This made the total cost for four DIY backgrounds, $85, with most of that sum going on the black theatre paint. It would be a lot cheaper if you used craft paint ($10 for 500ml at bunnings). From the one-sheet, I got two doubled sided boards with four different looks, and I have the paint and rollers, etc., to do more for only the cost of a new sheet of MDF. It would also be a lot cheaper if you already have mini rollers or paint at home. You can often pick up ‘miss tints’ from Bunnings for a lower price. Next time, I plan to use sea sponges and craft paint in a mix of blue and theatre black.
Method
Cut the sheet into two equal pieces. This will give you 2 x 600 x 600. Give the edges a light sand.
Adding Texture
Set your liquid nails in the caulking gun and squirt over the board. Cover about 1/4 of the board at a time to give you time to work the liquid nails. Squirt it on and then spread it randomly with the paint scraper. You do not want a nice even coat. Mix it up in all different directions and leave the strokes showing. I did a heavy coat on one board and a light one on the other for two different looks. Allow to dry overnight.

Next morning give your boards a coat of white paint and allow them to dry for an hour or so
Painting
Once dry, take your black and white paint – pour some of each in the centre of the board and roll around, mixing it to grey as you go. It will blend and become grey as you roll but don’t make it a solid even colour – try and leave some of the black and paler bits showing if you can

When you have covered the entire board place a piece of cling wrap on it and smoosh the cling wrap together to create wrinkles in the cling wrap. Then lift it off. It will lift the grey paint with it exposing white areas. Do it in 2-3 spots on the boards and then discard the cling wrap and allow the board to dry.

Once the grey was dry, I painted the reverse side of my board in the theatre black, so I had a completely matt, non-light reflective board. This gave me a good selection of versatile DIY backgrounds for flat lay and still life photography.