Tag:lighthouse

historic queenscliff

The Historic Town of Queenscliff

The historic town of Queenscliff is situated on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula 90 minutes from Melbourne. Nearby is Point Lonsdale (and a third lighthouse). Surrounded on three sides by water, Queenscliff is a popular seaside resort. It is known for its Victorian-era heritage-listed buildings and two lighthouses.

ozone hotel queenscliffe
Ozone Hotel
History

In January 1802, the first European explorers arrived with Lieutenant John Murray. This was followed by Captain Matthew Flinders in April. The first European settler was escaped convict William Buckley in 1803. Buckley briefly lived in a cave with local aborigines at Point Lonsdale, above which the lighthouse was later built. In 1836, permanent settlement began with the arrival of squatters. The area was then named Shortlands Bluff in honour of Lieutenant John Shortland who had assisted in the surveying of Port Phillip. In 1853 Lieutenant Charles La Trobe renamed the area Queenscliff in honour of Queen Victoria.

Originally a fishing village, Queenscliff evolved into a major cargo port servicing steamships trading in Port Phillip Bay. In 1841, a shipping pilot service was established to lead the boats through the treacherous rip that runs through Port Phillip Heads.

vue grand hotel queenscliffe
Vue Grand Hotel, built-in 1881
The Notorious Rip

The ‘rip’, also known as “The Heads”, is a narrow waterway connecting Bass Strait to Port Phillip Bay and is the only maritime route providing access to Port Phillip Bay. While the entrance between Point Lonsdale and Point Nepean is 3.5km wide, protruding reefs reduce the shipping channel to only 1km wide. In addition, large tides flow through the narrow channel from the bay to the ocean; this, coupled with the high rocky sea bed, puts it on the list of one of the ten most treacherous navigatable passages in the world. It’s a passage that has claimed many ships and lives. As a result, two lighthouses were added at Queenscliff in 1862-63, the High Light and Low light, with the Pt Lonsdale Lighthouse and foghorn added in 1867.

Map of the “Rip”
Ships coming through the Rip at Pt Lonsdale
Lighthouses

The High Light, also known as the Black Lighthouse, is situated on the grounds of Fort Queenscliff. It is one of only three black lighthouses in the world and the only one in the Southern Hemisphere. The Low Light – a White lighthouse stands at the entrance to Port Phillip from Bass Strait, overlooking the ‘rip’. On either side of the White Lighthouse are two skeletal towers showing red and green lights that blink in unison, defining the correct course through the Rip.

The Low/White Lighthouse and High Light/Black Lighthouse
Tourist Boom and Decline

In the late 19th century, Queenscliff boomed with visitors arriving from Melbourne after a two-hour paddle steamer journey. The railway line opened in 1879, bringing more tourists, and numerous luxury hotels sprung up to accommodate the influx of visitors. However, with the advent of the car, Queenscliff entered its decline, as tourists could now drive themselves anywhere within the state and were no longer reliant on Queenscliff as a transport hub. As a result, the railway ceased weekly passenger services in 1950. Instead, the train now operates passenger service between Queenscliff and Drysdale, with diesel and steam trains for the Blues Train, Day Out With Thomas Weekends, Santa Trains and Charter Experiences.

Revival

In the 1980’s tourism again turned its sights to Queenscliff. As there is no bridge connecting both sides of the bay, in 1987, the first Searoad ferry carrying 35 cars and passengers connected Sorrento with Queenscliff. This turned a 211km/3hr drive into a one-hour sea road in comfort. In 1993 a larger ferry, the M.V Queenscliff, commenced service, doubling the vehicle capacity and providing greater comfort for passengers. Searoad Ferries now run two ferries on an hourly service from Queenscliff to Sorrento, with a ferry leaving each side on the hour and passing each other in the bay.

A car drive vs the ferry
Ferry at the dock in Sorrento
crossing the bay – taken from the ferry going in the other direction
Dolphins often follow the ferry
Heritage Buildings

Listed on the Victorian Heritage Register are the following Queenscliff buildings:

  • Fishermans Shed – I Weeroona Parade and 2 Wharf St
  • Lathamstowe – built as a sanatorium for the Anglican Clergy
  • Ozone Hotel, 42 Gellibrand Street – now converted to apartments
  • Pilots cottages – 60-62 Gellibrand Street – built in 1854 for the sea pilots of Port Phillip
  • Queenscliff Hotel – 16 Gellibrand Street
  • Wreck Bell, Corner of Gellibrand and Wharf Streets
  • Fort Queenscliffe Museum, Cnr of King and Gellibrand Streets
  • Queenscliff Pier and Lifeboat Complex, Symonds Street,
  • Queenscliff Railway Station – 20 Symonds Street
  • Rosenfeld, 26 King Street,
  • Roseville Cottage, 42 Mercer Street,
  • Warringah, 80 Mercer Street
  • St George the Martyr Church and Parish Hall, 16-26 Hobson Street
Lathamstowe

Kangaroo Island in 5 days

Kangaroo Island – One night in Penneshaw, 2 in Karratta and 2 in Kingscote…. could we see it all?

Monday

Unlike my first trip to KI when we flew in, we drove and took the Ferry this time. The Sealink ferry runs regular crossings that take 45 mins. No seasickness pills were needed this time. It was a lovely calm crossing, and it seemed we had no sooner cleared Cape Jervis than we were arriving in Penneshaw.

We had an afternoon ocean safari booked with the chance of seals, dolphins, sea eagles etc. However, while I saw seals aplenty, the dolphins didn’t come near the boat, and the birds had flown elsewhere.

We stayed the night at the Kangaroo Island Seafront. The next day, we headed off to the Raptor Domain for a private 2-hour showing.

Tuesday

From the Raptor domain, the next stop was Little Sahara. A naturally occurring dune system around 2sq kms in size near Vivonne bay.

Little Sahara

Vivonne Bay & Seal Bay

After a quick stop for lunch, we headed to Vivonne Bay before heading back to Seal Bay for our private seal experience. Following a short talk by the ranger on seals and sea lions, we walked down the hill to the beach. Dozens of sea lions were relaxing on the sand.

Another short stop halfway. This came with a warning by the ranger that we had to stay together at all times. And if the ranger says move, she means right now! No kneeling if you can’t get up quickly (and probably at a run). The ranger also made it clear. It was a steep walk and unsuitable for anyone with heart conditions and bad knees. Many hands silently went up behind our back on the dicky knees proviso. But no, we all said, we’re good!! Let’s go!!

A full-grown male sea lion (a bull) can weigh up to 350kg, and a full-grown female can weigh 100kg. So I guess the move and move fast is relevant. At the end of the tour, it was time to head back up that steep hill we had all been warned about. Puffing and gasping, with two rest stops, we made back up! Finally, we headed to Western KI Caravan park, our home for the next two nights back in the cars.

Wednesday.

Up before the sparrows this time. We met at the exit gate of our accommodation at 5.30 am. And from there, and headed convoy style into the national park for sunrise at Remarkable Rocks. It was only a 23km drive but took over half an hour in the pitch dark. We crawled along at 50 kms an hr, dodging kangaroos and Cape Barren Geese walking across the road. Though near the Flinders Chase visitor centre, the geese had the good sense to use the pedestrian crossing.

P9111247_8_9_Balanced
Remarkable Rocks

From the car park, it’s a short flat walk along the boardwalk – then up onto the rocks to wander around. There is no fencing – no trespassing required. Access is open and permitted. The massive granite boulders have been shaped by wind and rain for 500 million years. They are covered with a red lichen that glows in the golden hour of sunrise or sunset.

Black mica, bluish quartz, and pinkish feldspar comprise most of the granite of Remarkable Rocks. These flat rocks are easy and safe to walk on during dry weather. But special caution should be taken when weather conditions become wet or windy. Strong winds and slippery rocks make it far easier to fall into the water.

With the sun well and truly up we headed back to our cabins for breakfast. Then, well fed, we drove back into the park again- making for Admirals Arch and Cape du Coeudic lighthouse. First stop after breakfast was Cape du Coeudic lighthouse. A stunning sandstone lighthouse (everything in SA seems to be made from sandstone ? ) with a pretty red cap. Its the only lighthouse I have ever seen with wide steps leading up and a double door entry. The need for a lighthouse in that area had been a great one for many years, as the treacherous waters already claimed 5 ships and 79 lives.

Kangaroo Island
remarkable rocks

The Cape du Couedic Lighthouse was constructed between 1906-1909 and was the fifteenth to be built on South Australia’s coast. It was also the last light to be built in South Australia. The tower itself was built from 2,000 pieces of local stone. Three four roomed cottages were also built of local stone with slate roofs for the head keeper and two assistants.

Lighthouses of Australia
Thursday

We had been down the National Park end for two days, and it was time to head back to Kingscote. Civilisation, mobile reception, supermarkets and cafes…. our planned route would take us past King George Beach, Snelling Beach, and Stokes Bay. We left the camp by 9 am and headed down towards the national park before making a right and taking the long dirt road. This road would take us to South Coast Road and Snelling Beach and onto Stokes Bay – 72 kms of dirt road.

Stokes Bay

The first order of business was lunch, then over to the hole in the wall that leads to the beach. A small sign on the boulders says ‘beach’ with an arrow. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo. Head through the tunnel of boulders and come out the other side onto the ‘secret’ beach.

Friday

While we headed out for sunrise again today. It was a complete fizzer with socked-in grey skies.

American River

Leaving the pier area, we returned to our cabins for breakfast before striking out again to American River and Cape Willoughby. Unfortunately, American River was a disappointment. Overcast grey skies didn’t help. But we only saw a few solitary pelicans, an old rusting boat and a few anglers.

We drove down to the Dudley Peninsula and Cape Willoughby Lighthouse from American River. By now, the sun was shining, and blue skies prevailed.

Cape Willoughby was the first lighthouse to be erected in South Australia, and lights the Backstairs Passage between Kangaroo Island and the mainland. Established in 1852, the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse, originally known as the Sturt Light after Captain Charles Sturt, is the oldest in South Australia. It is set on the eastern extremity of Kangaroo Island.

Lighthouses Of Australia

From the lighthouse, we headed back to American River for lunch. Friday, midday, everything is closed 🙁 So we went back to Kingscote and finally got lunch mid-afternoon. From there, it was back to the cabins for some downtime before venturing for another disappointing sunset before our last night’s dinner.

Saturday

We were returning to Victoria today and booked on the 10 am Ferry. I wanted to stop off at Pennington Bay on the way back to Penneshaw. So we left a bit earlier to fit that in

Pennington Bay
Pennington Bay

We arrived at the terminal in good time – and loading was easy and quick. While we did miss a few things – we covered just 2,876kms from when we left home until we got back. We saw all we planned to see (except those damn elusive sunrise and sunsets). Kangaroo Island is a fabulous spot for a holiday – more so if you are into photography. I would highly recommend you plan a trip there.

© Bevlea Ross