Tag:Olympus
Travelling (within Australia) hasn’t been possible for months and may not be for some time yet. Due to border closures, overseas travel is off the agenda for the next couple of years. It’s enough to make you sell your camera. Except no one would buy it because it’s lockdown, and they can’t take photos either. It’s impossible to do travel photography when restrictions to movement are implemented to halt the spread of Covid-19, which means I can’t go further than 5km from my front door.
The Great Pandemic
I love history and find it fascinating. I like to read about it and watch documentaries. However, I do not enjoy being part of it. We are living through the ‘Great Pandemic of 2020/21’ and, in the future, will probably feature in a school curriculum.

A small silver lining
On Facebook and Instagram, along with many others, I have been sharing previous travel photography as “armchair travels”. One silver lining of armchair travel is, inspired by the locations others are sharing; I am now compiling a list of places to see – for when we can all start moving again.
Photography and travel planning are all we can do now, and I happily spent hours researching destinations and planning itineraries. Costing is something that can’t be done yet as we have no idea what hotels and airlines etc., will charge once they re-open for business. But whilst we can’t travel, we can plan, research, learn, and be ready for when restrictions are lifted, and we can finally head off on a trip.

Location vs Gear
Many people who are into photography subscribe to the theory that they need a better camera or lens to get a great shot. And it’s partly true. But travelling to new destinations or locations is more important than gear. There is no point in having a whizz-bang $5000 camera if you then can’t afford to stray far from home once you have bought it. You may live in a fabulous spot – but you can only photograph the Wanaka Tree so many times.
Planning is everything
Plan your trips. Learn about where you are going and when is the best time to go. Even if it’s a “family” holiday, you can still do travel photography on your trip without spoiling it for them. It’s your holiday too.
- Research areas, read books, and google the locations. Get as much info as you can before you pick a location. The family will have fun on just about any beach, but if it’s just a stretch of boring white sand, will you?
- Seasons matter! If somewhere is awesome in autumn for the trees or fantastic in spring for the waterfalls, you are shortchanging yourself being there in summer. Match your destination to the season you are travelling.
- Plan your road trip stopovers around scenic locations. Ok, you have to sleep somewhere on a road trip, but if one hour further down the road or one hour closer has a fabulous sunrise or sunset spot, that’s the place to lay your head.
- Take the road less travelled. A secondary highway going through small towns is much more interesting and scenic than mile after mile of main highways. A case in point is the painted silos and water tanks popping up all across Australia. You’ll find them in the towns, not the highway.
- Slow down and look around as you go through the small towns. Small towns often have quirky old buildings.
- Pick your accommodation handy to scenic spots. If doing a sunrise or sunset, you are far better off being close to your location rather than looking at a one-hour drive in the dark or getting up at extra stupid o’clock to be there for sunrise
- Try for a balcony or patio when booking your accommodation. I have gotten some of my best bird shots in the early morning, just sitting on my veranda in my ‘jammies’. It helps to travel with a bag of wild bird seed 😉
- Talk to the locals and ask for location suggestions But be mindful that they aren’t necessarily photographers. What is a pretty spot to them for a sunrise doesn’t mean it’s ‘worth a shot’. Scout out the location before you want to shoot it. While we found a great spot in Nagambie thanks to a local’s suggestion, we totally failed with a “great sunrise spot”, as suggested by the manager at Mungo Lodge. It was a great spot to see the sunrise, but a terrible location, with no foreground interest, regarding photographing it.
- Return to locations at least once. You may have got a nice pic – but next time, you may get an even better one, going back in a different season, or if the conditions are just right
- The early bird gets the worm. The light is soft at sunrise and sunset, but there are fewer people around at sunrise, and you stand a better chance of having the place to yourself. At iconic locations – where even at sunrise there will be a row of tripods and keen photographers, make a thermos of coffee and get there a good hour before sunrise. Find your perfect spot, set up your tripod and camera, and enjoy your coffee while everyone else arrives late and rushes to set up. (again, this is where scouting out the day before helps)

Safety Matters
Early morning starts, and travelling to places for ‘that shot’ is part and parcel of the landscape or travel photographer’s life. But you need to consider your safety and avoid risk where possible. For example, you can’t take that great photo from a coffin or hospital bed.
- Your car needs to be reliable. Don’t do 4WD roads in a 2WD car. And if you are doing 4wd roads, travel in a convoy. Nothing is worse than breaking down in the middle of nowhere, especially if you are alone. Which leads to #2
- Don’t go to unsafe or risky areas alone. Early morning shots of the city with empty streets are fabulous. Not if you come across an aggressive or drug-impaired person. No judgment on them, but from experience, it’s scary. Luckily we were in a group. Find a fellow photographer to go out with or join a group.
- Stay on designated paths and behind the fence. I know there is a great shot to be had by climbing the barrier. But it’s there for a reason. Too many times have I seen on the news where photographers climbed the barrier for a shot, and it ended up a rescue or body retrieval
- Dress for where you are going. Flip Flops are not recommended footwear for scrub or bush. Snakes, insects, and rocks all love exposed feet. Long sleeves, sunglasses, sunscreen and a sunhat for summer. Warm clothes, and even better yet, tactical gear that’s windproof, splash-proof, and a down coat with a minimum 650 loft for winter. Like they say in Norway, “there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing”
- Buy a rain jacket. Keep a rain jacket in your camera bag. They roll up small and are handy for the unexpected shower, sitting on when the ground is wet, or putting your bag on.
- Always carry water.
- Invest in two-way radios If you and your travel buddy are likely to be going off the beaten path with no phone reception. It helps to keep in touch if you are out of sight of each other. If travelling in a convoy, keep one in each car.
- Put your phone in a ziplock bag. If you are walking with it in your pocket, it could make all the difference if it falls out on a muddy trail
- Keep spare shoes in the car. It’s no fun driving for hours in wet shoes and socks. Or bare freezing feet. I stopped for some shots once, and my shoes were sodden by the time I got back to the car. Luckily, I had a spare pair in my luggage because we were off for the weekend. Lesson learned.

Camera Bag essentials
I always have a small ’emergency’ kit in my camera bag, which comes in handy on more than one occasion. They take up very little room – but make all the difference if you need them and are an hour’s walk from the car. You’ll thank yourself for packing them in your camera bag.
- Small tubes of sunscreen and insect repellant
- Painkillers
- Torch and/or headlamp (check that it’s working and carry spare batteries)
- Mosquito/fly net for your hat
- A few bandaids and a small container of antiseptic
- A small bag of salt is also handy to have if you are going into a damp or rainforest area known for leeches and you don’t have a smoker in your group. Your insect repellant will also work if it’s DEET.
- Allen key for your tripod if it takes one
- Chocolate or protein bar. Breakfast biscuits are good, too, to fill you up if hunger strikes.

This, too, shall pass
Stay positive. Lockdown won’t last forever. And hopefully, before too much longer, we will be back on the road. Meanwhile, take a landscape course, watch YouTube tutorials, start planning where you will go, and work out what you want to shoot while there.
In the meantime.. stay safe.
Sorry Canon, it was good while it lasted, but it’s over. I have a new love. The Olympus OM -D-E MI Mark II has stolen my heart. And made travel fun again.

My First Canon
Back in 2012, I bought my first DSLR. A Canon 450D with a twin lens kit. I was in heaven.
I had no idea how to use a camera with interchangeable lenses, having never owned one before, but I took an online course to master the concept of F stops, ISO and aperture and went forth into the world. I LOVED the 450D. Pics were of excellent quality and easy to learn. Emboldened by what I had learnt, two years later, I upgraded to the Canon 7D. It was heavier and larger but had higher frames per second (FPS) for wildlife, my favourite subject alongside landscapes. Wanting to shoot wildlife better, I purchased the Sigma 150-600. You can see where this is going. My kit was getting heavier.
Canon 6D
Fast forward to 2016, and I now also had the Canon 6D, with 24-105 L F.4, 100-400 L F4.5-5.6 and a Canon 16-35 F2.8, plus filters and a host of spare batteries. Flying with the gear was a nightmare. With a 7kg carry-on allowance, I couldn’t take it all on board and didn’t want to trust it to the checked luggage. So it became a strategic game of wearing a coat and filling the pockets. Then walk through like the coat didn’t weigh 4-5 kg on its own.
Crunch time came when I took a trip to Qld. We were planning on shooting birds in Lamington National Park, so the 100-400 had to come along, as did the wide angle as we were going to be doing landscapes. And, of course, the 24-105 for my walkaround lens. Hoping to find waterfalls, I packed the filters. The entire bag weighed around 10kg. This time I had no choice but to trust the 100-400 to the checked luggage. It was well ensconced in bubble wrap, placed in the centre of the suitcase with clothes all around it for padding. Fortunately, it made the trip there and back with no damage. But, realising this wasn’t sustainable, I started researching the move to mirrorless.
Mirrorless Options
Sony was the first I looked at, as a few friends have them and seem to like them. However, the battery life wasn’t impressive. I was not too fond of the shape and ergonomics of the Sony. The Sony was quite slim and square and call me shallow, but I wanted a camera that still looked like a DSLR. While I could have used the Canon lenses with the Sony via an adapter, I would still have canon lenses’ weight. If I was going to change over, I decided I would totally change over and use native lenses. Otherwise, there was no real weight saving.
Olympus
Then I came across the new Olympus M -D-E MI Mark II. It was a nice weight at 574g, had a good grip, was splash-proof, dustproof and freeze-proof. Further investigations found it has excellent five-axis stabilisation, a touch screen, 121-point cross-type phase-detection AF, a minimum burst rate of 15fps, battery life of around 400 shots, and an articulated back LED screen. Sound too good to be true? NO.

I was still researching by Christmas and decided to bite the bullet and get it. It has proved to be one of my better decisions in life. I love, love, love the Olympus. It’s got a solid metal casing, plus the Lenses feel solid and are all metal with no plastic bits. In the field, it’s light and comfortable to hold. I went for the Pro lenses, which are all F2.8 because they are fast and accurate. Image quality is fabulous. Yes, it’s a micro four-thirds, so the sensor is smaller than the crop of full-frame sensors. But I don’t buy into the whole ‘must have a full-frame to get good pics’.


Olympus Lenses
The 12-40 F2.8 Pro lives on the camera – and for wildlife, I have the 40-150 Pro 2 .8. You double the focal distance on the micro four-thirds, which equals 24-80 and 80-300 on a full-frame. I also purchased the teleconverter for the 40-150, and when that’s onboard, the 40-150 becomes a 112 -420mm. The 7-14 F2.8 Pro is on my wish list, and I’ll be closely looking at the EOFY sales this year.

According to the reviews I read, the menu on the Olympus was ‘overly complicated, but I didn’t find it too much of an issue. Yes, it’s VERY customisable – there are so many options. Most I ignore and will worry about when I need to know. Maybe if your first camera is the Olympus, it would be overwhelming, but if you are moving from a DSLR, you already have a working knowledge, and it shouldn’t be too daunting. An excellent video by Tony Northrup helped fill in the blanks and get it set up for me.
Problem Solved
Canon makes fabulous lenses, no argument there. And I was happy with the gear and the shots, but the weight became a deal-breaker. My kit now weighs around 2.5kg, and the 7-14 will add 534g, so in total, by the time I add batteries, filters, etc., the bag will be max 3.5kg … a loss of 6.5 kg of camera weight. So flying with carry on should no longer be an issue. My images not only have no drop in quality going from crop to micro four-thirds, but I think they are better (the lenses are a standout). My shoulders and back sooo thank me also.




Photography gear and travelling light?? Yes, it sounds like a dream.. it is possible… kind of, sort of, depending….. confused? Bear with me.
Travelling in 2008
Back in 2008, travelling, with ‘gear’ for me, was a small digital Panasonic Lumix that just popped into my handbag. My ‘flight’ luggage was a carry-on compatible suitcase with clothes. I prided myself on always travelling light.

Two Years Later
Then in 2010, I bought a Canon 450D with a twin lens kit, and everything changed. The camera and two lenses went into a backpack, along with filters, spare batteries, and battery chargers. This became my carry-on. Clothing now went in a medium suitcase as it had to also fit the length of the tripod in, and it had to be checked in due to size and the fact that my camera gear was now my carry-on. This still worked reasonably well until 2012. Up until then, coming in under the 7kg limit for carry-on wasn’t a big issue. Camera gear weighed about 5kg, and I hadn’t started including a laptop as part of my gear, so I had enough left over for an iPad, phone, handbag, etc. (yes, if you travel budget airlines, they do weigh the handbag as well if the plane is full).
Travelling in 2012
In 2012 I upgraded to a Canon 7D M1 with a 24-70 lens. Travelling with gear became a major headache of not exceeding the limit. The Canon 450D weighed 475g without lenses. The Canon 7D M1 weighed 1.467g body only, and the 24-70 lens was 950g. Almost a full kg heavier just on the body alone! Add the zoom lens, sometimes the macro. The 7kg carry on limit has now become a significant issue. There was no way I could meet it with what I wanted to take, a camera, plus two lenses (70-300 and 24-70) plus filters, batteries, battery charger, and remote. Add the weight of the actual bag. It became a ‘smuggling’ mission to get on board.
Staying Under Cabin Limit
I always wore clothes with heaps of pockets that were full! So with the camera’s weight around the neck a significant issue, I bought a Peak Design Slide Strap. Excellent strap and is so much more comfortable than the horrible neck straps that come branded with the cameras. (For the huge amount of money good cameras cost, you think they would be able to provide you with a decent neck strap, no, it seems too much to expect).

Fast Forward to 2016
In 2016, I bought into the full-frame is better for the low-light school of thought. Consequently, I moved from the 7DM1 to Canon 6D Mark1 with 24-105L. Again a drop in weight down to 770g, with the 24-105L at 670g, I was saving 697g on the camera body – not earth-shattering, but a bit better.
It’s 2016, and I again upgraded to the Canon 7D MII with 24-105. The camera body was 1,388g – again. heavier (what was I thinking?), then I added the Canon 100-400 M1 with a weight of 1.365g. Add the fact I now took a laptop to download my images, plus a portable hard drive to back them up to, it was impossible to travel with gear, plus a laptop, iPad, etc. and come in under the 7kg carry-on allowance. Coming home on a flight from NZ once, I saw them weighing handbags, so we quickly left the queue, went to the toilets, and the iPad went down the front of my pants, the phone went into the back pocket, batteries came out of carry on and went into yet more pockets….aghhh!
2017 and something’s got to give
In 2017 on a trip to Qld, I risked putting the 100-400L into the checked luggage.. well cuddled in bubble wrap, inside a padded bag, in the middle of the suitcase, surrounded by clothes. Opening that suitcase on arrival was nerve-wracking.. would I find smashed glass? Thankfully it arrived there and back ok, but it wasn’t something I wanted to repeat. I looked into Pelican cases that could be checked in, and the gear was safe.. but I didn’t like letting it out of my sight, so that thought was discarded.

The Decision is Made
Crunch time came on another trip to Qld. Walking around Seaworld all day with the 7D M2 plus the big 100-400L, we had 2.5kg around over the shoulder, plus handbags, in 35C heat, and we were hot, grumpy and exhausted. By the end of the day, that camera and lens over the shoulder seemed to weigh comparable to a cannonball. We went back to our hotel, showered, sat on the balcony with a chilled bottle of wine.. and planned our next ‘system’. Cause we were going home and selling those cannons, Canons!

Mirrorless Options
I looked at Sony, as I could use my current lenses, but the weight saving using the adapter to take the canon lens.. and then the lens.. was so negligible to not be worth it. It seemed like I was going to change over; it made more sense to do it completely, complete with the new camera body and native lenses. I also wanted a camera that still looked like an SLR with a good grip. Call me shallow, but if I was paying a couple of thousand for a camera, I didn’t want it looking like a simple point-and-shoot. I also looked at Panasonic and the Fuji (and this was before their latest releases), but Olympus kept coming up with better specs and looked the way to go.

Olympus
Looking at the Olympus OM-D E-M1 MarkII, I liked the ergonomics; the 5-way stabilisation, 18 plus fps, was weather-sealed and freeze-proof (and with a trip to Norway coming up, a significant factor). The battery life was also better than the sony, and the pro lenses to go with it are of fantastic quality. It has a fully transitional back LED, built-in WiFi, Automatic focus stacking, auto HDR, love the live comp for night shooting, plus loads of other features… and at only 530g, it was a winner. The lenses are also light, and I added the 12-40 F2.8 Pro, 80-140 F2.8 pro with 1.4 converters, 7-14 F2.8 Pro, and the 60mm F2.8 Macro. Being a micro four-thirds system, you double the focal length to equal the full frame.. so I have basically from 14mm to 392mm (when I add the converter to the 80-140)

Any mirrorless will save you loads of weight. But, of course, the system you choose will depend on your shooting style. For myself, I do landscapes and wildlife, so Olympus is perfect for me. Sony mirrorless is probably the way to go if you are sold on full-frame. But I’m not. My image quality going from full-frame (Canon 6D) to crop (Canon 7D MI and MII) to Mirrorless Micro four-thirds (Olympus OM-D E-M1 MarkII), in my opinion, has not degraded at all. Of course, I expect it not to perform as well at ISO above 3200, but I never shoot that high anyway, so it’s a non-issue, and I prefer a long exposure over a high ISO.
The final analysis
My crop-sensor kit weight was around 10kg .. the micro four-thirds is just 5kg. So adding the weight of the bag and the laptop, I can now make the 7kg carry-on. So yes, it is possible to travel pack photography gear and travelling ‘Light’. But not if you use a high-end crop sensor or full-frame DSLR. And my clothing still goes in checked luggage.