Kangaroo Island – One night in Penneshaw, 2 in Karratta and 2 in Kingscote…. could we see it all?

Monday

Unlike my first trip to KI when we flew in, we drove and took the Ferry this time. The Sealink ferry runs regular crossings that take 45 mins. No seasickness pills were needed this time. It was a lovely calm crossing, and it seemed we had no sooner cleared Cape Jervis than we were arriving in Penneshaw.

We had an afternoon ocean safari booked with the chance of seals, dolphins, sea eagles etc. However, while I saw seals aplenty, the dolphins didn’t come near the boat, and the birds had flown elsewhere.

We stayed the night at the Kangaroo Island Seafront. The next day, we headed off to the Raptor Domain for a private 2-hour showing.

Tuesday

From the Raptor domain, the next stop was Little Sahara. A naturally occurring dune system around 2sq kms in size near Vivonne bay.

Vivonne Bay & Seal Bay

After a quick stop for lunch, we headed to Vivonne Bay before heading back to Seal Bay for our private seal experience. Following a short talk by the ranger on seals and sea lions, we walked down the hill to the beach. Dozens of sea lions were relaxing on the sand.

Another short stop halfway. This came with a warning by the ranger that we had to stay together at all times. And if the ranger says move, she means right now! No kneeling if you can’t get up quickly (and probably at a run). The ranger also made it clear. It was a steep walk and unsuitable for anyone with heart conditions and bad knees. Many hands silently went up behind our back on the dicky knees proviso. But no, we all said, we’re good!! Let’s go!!

A full-grown male sea lion (a bull) can weigh up to 350kg, and a full-grown female can weigh 100kg. So I guess the move and move fast is relevant. At the end of the tour, it was time to head back up that steep hill we had all been warned about. Puffing and gasping, with two rest stops, we made back up! Finally, we headed to Western KI Caravan park, our home for the next two nights back in the cars.

Wednesday.

Up before the sparrows this time. We met at the exit gate of our accommodation at 5.30 am. And from there, and headed convoy style into the national park for sunrise at Remarkable Rocks. It was only a 23km drive but took over half an hour in the pitch dark. We crawled along at 50 kms an hr, dodging kangaroos and Cape Barren Geese walking across the road. Though near the Flinders Chase visitor centre, the geese had the good sense to use the pedestrian crossing.

Remarkable Rocks

From the car park, it’s a short flat walk along the boardwalk – then up onto the rocks to wander around. There is no fencing – no trespassing required. Access is open and permitted. The massive granite boulders have been shaped by wind and rain for 500 million years. They are covered with a red lichen that glows in the golden hour of sunrise or sunset.

Black mica, bluish quartz, and pinkish feldspar comprise most of the granite of Remarkable Rocks. These flat rocks are easy and safe to walk on during dry weather. But special caution should be taken when weather conditions become wet or windy. Strong winds and slippery rocks make it far easier to fall into the water.

With the sun well and truly up we headed back to our cabins for breakfast. Then, well fed, we drove back into the park again- making for Admirals Arch and Cape du Coeudic lighthouse. First stop after breakfast was Cape du Coeudic lighthouse. A stunning sandstone lighthouse (everything in SA seems to be made from sandstone ? ) with a pretty red cap. Its the only lighthouse I have ever seen with wide steps leading up and a double door entry. The need for a lighthouse in that area had been a great one for many years, as the treacherous waters already claimed 5 ships and 79 lives.

Kangaroo Island

The Cape du Couedic Lighthouse was constructed between 1906-1909 and was the fifteenth to be built on South Australia’s coast. It was also the last light to be built in South Australia. The tower itself was built from 2,000 pieces of local stone. Three four roomed cottages were also built of local stone with slate roofs for the head keeper and two assistants.

Lighthouses of Australia

Thursday

We had been down the National Park end for two days, and it was time to head back to Kingscote. Civilisation, mobile reception, supermarkets and cafes…. our planned route would take us past King George Beach, Snelling Beach, and Stokes Bay. We left the camp by 9 am and headed down towards the national park before making a right and taking the long dirt road. This road would take us to South Coast Road and Snelling Beach and onto Stokes Bay – 72 kms of dirt road.

Stokes Bay

The first order of business was lunch, then over to the hole in the wall that leads to the beach. A small sign on the boulders says ‘beach’ with an arrow. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo. Head through the tunnel of boulders and come out the other side onto the ‘secret’ beach.

Friday

While we headed out for sunrise again today. It was a complete fizzer with socked-in grey skies.

American River

Leaving the pier area, we returned to our cabins for breakfast before striking out again to American River and Cape Willoughby. Unfortunately, American River was a disappointment. Overcast grey skies didn’t help. But we only saw a few solitary pelicans, an old rusting boat and a few anglers.

We drove down to the Dudley Peninsula and Cape Willoughby Lighthouse from American River. By now, the sun was shining, and blue skies prevailed.

Cape Willoughby was the first lighthouse to be erected in South Australia, and lights the Backstairs Passage between Kangaroo Island and the mainland. Established in 1852, the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse, originally known as the Sturt Light after Captain Charles Sturt, is the oldest in South Australia. It is set on the eastern extremity of Kangaroo Island.

Lighthouses Of Australia

From the lighthouse, we headed back to American River for lunch. Friday, midday, everything is closed 🙁 So we went back to Kingscote and finally got lunch mid-afternoon. From there, it was back to the cabins for some downtime before venturing for another disappointing sunset before our last night’s dinner.

Saturday

We were returning to Victoria today and booked on the 10 am Ferry. I wanted to stop off at Pennington Bay on the way back to Penneshaw. So we left a bit earlier to fit that in

We arrived at the terminal in good time – and loading was easy and quick. While we did miss a few things – we covered just 2,876kms from when we left home until we got back. We saw all we planned to see (except those damn elusive sunrise and sunsets). Kangaroo Island is a fabulous spot for a holiday – more so if you are into photography. I would highly recommend you plan a trip there.