Summerlands at Phillip Island have been the natural habitat of Little Penguins for centuries. During the day, they venture out to catch fish and return to their nests on Phillip Island at the Summerlands Peninsula as night falls. Here, they incubate their eggs, care for their young, and shed their feathers. The spectacular sight of these penguins returning to their homes at sunset has been a popular attraction for over a century.

How it all began

The story of Summerlands Beach and its beloved penguins dates back to the 1920s and three Phillip Island locals, Bert West, Bert Denham, and Bert Watchorn. The three Berts were the first to open the beach for organised penguin viewings. They greeted visitors getting off the ferry and offered personalised tours of Summerlands and Phillip Island for just five shillings a piece. For an extra shilling, you could get strawberries and cream.

In the 1940s, visitor numbers soared when the bridge from the mainland to Phillip Island was erected at San Remo. At this point, tourists began flocking to the pristine shores and started building houses around Summerlands Beach.

Prior to a formal sanctuary, beachgoers would pack their baskets and gear, heading to the shores to witness the enchanting sight of penguins emerging from the water. Although seemingly innocent, this practice took a toll on the penguins’ natural habitats and homes, as the influx of tourists disrupted their daily routines.

Summerlands Estate

During the 1920s, the peninsula was divided into 900 plots of land and named Summerlands Estate. It mainly consisted of exposed land bordered by steep cliffs that dropped into the Bass Strait. In the late 1940s, several families from Melbourne purchased plots and constructed simple fibro holiday homes.

Over time, the number of homes in the area grew to around 177 by the 1980s. However, this growth brought challenges, as dogs and foxes began endangering the penguin population, and road accidents became more frequent. As a result, the local penguin study group became increasingly worried about the declining penguin numbers. They feared the penguin colony wouldn’t survive if something wasn’t done.

More concerning, however, was the danger that the holidaymaker’s canine companions posed to the Little Penguins. The introduction of dogs to the area contributed to a significant drop in their population. Before long, all but one of the colonies on Phillip Island were decimated. Only the Summerlands colony remained. It became clear that a change in public behaviour towards these valuable creatures was necessary to avoid causing more harm.

The Great Govt buy back

In July 1985, the state government, under the leadership of then-premier John Cain, made a groundbreaking decision. After much lobbying and discussions, they decided to purchase the entire Summerlands estate. They would buy back all 774 allotments and transform it into a wildlife reserve for the little penguins. Nevertheless, this decision brought about significant distress. Understandably, the residents of Summerlands were not pleased with this decision as it would end their community.

By 2007 there were just a few holdouts left. The government then compulsorily acquired the final 42 properties. Twenty empty blocks and twenty-two with houses, held by 34 private owners. After a tumultuous period, the buyback program finally ended in 2010, which many attributed to insufficient funding. During this time, the estate’s future was uncertain, and residents could not work on their properties, much to their dissatisfaction. After the completion of the buyback, all the houses were demolished or removed. The government then spent $3.4 million on a habit restoration program. They continue to install and maintain nesting boxes as well as pest control (eliminate foxes, feral cats and rabbits).

the Little (fairy) Penguins

Little penguins, also known as fairy penguins or Little Blue Penguins, are aptly named due to their small size, weighing just under a kilogram and being slightly larger than a bowling pin. They are the smallest among the 18 penguin species worldwide, and their blue and white feathers are unique to their kind. Along the coastlines of southern Australia and New Zealand, you can find little penguins. However, the largest colony and the last one located on Phillip Island is on Summerland Peninsula, with an impressive 40,000 breeding penguins.

A win for the penguins

The buyback initiative has been deemed a significant victory for conservationists. It immediately resulted in a notable reduction in penguin fatalities from road or dog accidents. In the past, the penguin population was estimated to be between 12,000 to 14,000 in 1984. Fast forward to today, and it currently stands at approximately 40,000 breeding penguins. The region’s preservation has also positively affected other creatures, such as Short-tailed Shearwaters (aka mutton birds).

In another clash of progress and wildlife, the short-tailed Shearwaters are known to flock to the San Remo bridge lights during their migration. Therefore the bridge lights are switched off for a few nights around April 25 during the departure peak. Signs at either end of the bridge warn drivers of the changed traffic conditions. 

Another win for conservation at Phillip Island has seen the recent release of the endangered Eastern barred bandicoot.

Facilities Today

At the main penguin viewing area, visitors can enjoy a 180-degree elevated platform that overlooks the coast. The penguins usually spend their day in the ocean hunting for food, so they only swim up to rest for the night. Returning at sunset from a long day of fishing, the penguins make their way up the beach to their burrows. The penguin parade platform is right along the sandy shore, offering guests a front-row seat as the penguins waddle up the sand.

There are ‘levels’ for those wishing to purchase tickets, with the top tier ticket being in the underground viewing section. This allows eye-level viewing of the penguins as they come ashore and the comfort of being inside, out of the weather. It does get freezing on the beach at night.

The Phillip Island Nature Park is one of the best eco-tourism facilities in the world, balancing scientific research and conservation with visitor education and unique wildlife experiences.